Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hello jetpilot.

Need a set of brembo pads for a GTR33.

Really just need the rears for the time being...but if the price is right..lol

Pm me if you can help.

Hi im intrested in just a front set of A1RM Brembo ... would the price be the same at $149 + $12.50 shipping

let me know ;)

Hi mate,

Yep, that's correct, but unfortunately out of stock at the moment. Should have more Brembo A1RM pads in about 4 weeks time.

Regards,

Greg

Edited by jetpilot1986
Hello jetpilot.

Need a set of brembo pads for a GTR33.

Really just need the rears for the time being...but if the price is right..lol

Pm me if you can help.

Hi mate,

Only got Brembo pads left in HPX, which is the similar sort of performance as Bendix Ultimates, just minus the dust and rotor wear. $149, plus $12.50 shipping for for the rears, or $236 for front and rear shipped.

Regards,

Greg

Hi mate,

Only got Brembo pads left in HPX, which is the similar sort of performance as Bendix Ultimates, just minus the dust and rotor wear. $149, plus $12.50 shipping for for the rears, or $236 for front and rear shipped.

Regards,

Greg

Thanks Greg for the quick response.

How do you think the Lucas rate compared to these you are offering?

Do you sell Lucas TRW Pads?

Can't seem to find the part numbers for my car.

Anyways,

I am running Brembo pads front at the moment with RDA rotors.Stock rear.

Replacing the rears with slotted rotors and new pads.

The trouble is at the moment the Brembo pads suck..take a long time to warm up and have scared me quite often.

Car 99% street driven, fairly hard when all warms up that is...lol

No track work..a few 1/4 mile runs..that is about it.

The trouble is there are so many choices...

I am after one that works well when cold...does not fade or explode when pushed hard...has very minimum disc wear, quite and creates little to no dust.

Take care

Tekin

Hi mate,

How do you think the Lucas rate compared to these you are offering?

The Lucas are a very good pad, and will withstand very high temperatures. We peronally used to run the in the rally car because for the price, you couldn't go past the performance. We've now replaced them with the QFM A1RM, which is more of a dedicated performance pad, and its definately an improvement. Although the Lucas will withstand very high temperatures, its still just a very good performing street pad, and not a performance pad as such. Other problem with the Lucas is the dust.

Do you sell Lucas TRW Pads?

Can't seem to find the part numbers for my car.

Yep, I think from memory (don't quote me), the TRW's for the Brembo are about $120ish/$75ish front/rear...

Car 99% street driven, fairly hard when all warms up that is...lol

No track work..a few 1/4 mile runs..that is about it.

The trouble is there are so many choices...

I am after one that works well when cold...does not fade or explode when pushed hard...has very minimum disc wear, quite and creates little to no dust.

If the car isn't being used on the track, then the HPX will be more than enough, whilst providing good cold bite, and minimal dust. With the QFM we often forget that the HPX is the lesser of two pads when compared to the (slightly more expensive) A1RM, but the HPX still has the sort of performance of Bendix Ultimate, or Ferodo DS2500 or EBC Green stuff, but whilst remaining a very good street pad.

If dust is of concern, stick to the HPX. If dust isn't a big concern, then the TRW Lucas is definately a slightly high performing pad, but is quite dusty.

Hope that helps!

Regards,

Greg

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Greg,

You don't reply to your emails so:

I have a problem, I just installed the pads on my GTR and there is a very load screech when braking now. This is very embarrassing and quite franking annoying.

No where on the thread does it mention that this is normal, so I can only assume that this is a manufacturing defect? please explain yourself.

Why would this be happening?

Edited by GTR-PWR
Hi mate,

That's unusual! Were they A1RM or HPX pads? How long after you fitted them did it start? Did you machine the rotors? Did you re-fit the original shims? Squeal is caused by vibration between the backing plates and the caliper itself (nothing to do with the pad material itself), and so, depending on machining tolerances, some calipers will do it not matter what pads are in it. Try some Loctite 3 (permatex) on the backing plates as often this is a better fix than the proper anti-squeal stuff.

Regards,

Greg

HPX pads. Started to squeel a few weeks after, it happens under light to medium breaking. Mostly at lights or in car parks when breaking at low speed with lightish pressure. Its very high pitched and embarassing. Original shims and all that jazz.

Why use the loctite 3 instead of anti squeeling stuff? Where do i get it from?

Cheers!

Hi Greg,

You don't reply to your emails so:

I have a problem, I just installed the pads on my GTR and there is a very load screech when braking now. This is very embarrassing and quite franking annoying.

No where on the thread does it mention that this is normal, so I can only assume that this is a manufacturing defect? please explain yourself.

Why would this be happening?

Hi Harry,

Sent you the following email yesterday:

Hi Harry,

Sorry about the late reply. We had two public holidays last week so we took the week off and went testing with the team for a few days.

Yours were Brembo's weren't they? Was there any dramas with installation etc.? The pins went through the pads ok, and it all fitted fine? Never had any dramas with them at all previously, so just trying to figure out if there has been a manufacturing error. Screeching is generally harmonics between the backing plates and calipers itself, and nothing to do with the pad material. Due to variances in manufacture of both the pad and more importantly, the caliper, the pads can often get harmonics between them and the caliper, which is the screech. Pad material itself, won't make screeching noises, and can only very rarely make very low speed grinding noises, but that's not a problem we've ever had with the A1RM, and would more likely be a rock in the caliper or something.

If you can, get some anti-squeal, or what we find works well is Permatex (Loctite 3) and cover the backing plates in it before installation. Short of that I can't really think of anything else to do.

Any dramas let me know.

Regards,

Greg

HPX pads. Started to squeel a few weeks after, it happens under light to medium breaking. Mostly at lights or in car parks when breaking at low speed with lightish pressure. Its very high pitched and embarassing. Original shims and all that jazz.

Why use the loctite 3 instead of anti squeeling stuff? Where do i get it from?

Cheers!

JP??

Hey Greg

Are the deals still in place or has it finished... was looking at the 'HPX Front and Rear Brembo Pads. $110 + $55 + $12.50 shipping = $177.50 delivered!' Is that deal still on..

JP??

Sorry bud. Loctite 3 (or permatex as its otherwise known) is just a non-hardening gasket or sealant that can be bought at most bearing, automotive or hardware store. But pull the pads out first, give them a light rub on concrete, on BOTH sides of the pad. The type of squeal you describe is harmonics between the pad and the caliper, and nothing to do with pad material itself. Did you machine or replace the rotor with the pads?

Hey Greg

Are the deals still in place or has it finished... was looking at the 'HPX Front and Rear Brembo Pads. $110 + $55 + $12.50 shipping = $177.50 delivered!' Is that deal still on..

Hi mate,

Yep, still got a couple of HPX Brembos on the shelf. Just PM your details, name, delivery address (preferably business) and email, and I can fire you through an invoice with direct deposit details etc. or else credit card over the phone is also fine.

Regards,

Greg

Hey Greg .. still waiting for a your details?

Sorry mate. Myself and the team were down at Phillip Is. for the 6 hour over the weekend, and have only just gotten back in today. Will PM straight away.

Regards,

Greg

hey after a set of front and rear lucas pads for s13 turbo Fronts:db1232 Rear:db325 can you give me a price deliviered to NSW 2069 cheers

Edited by DOCK
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...