Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

But its the stickers that seperate them and make them stand out as "something special". :woot:

Taking the stickers away would be like putting GTR badges on a GTS. Its makes your car look dumb instantly, and ppl assume the same of the driver/owner LOL

Not trying to spark a debate or anything, just my opinion :D

taking the stickers away would be like taking the GTR badge off a gtr, so it'll still be the same car.. just abit more like a sleeper.. if ur into that.. (most people cant tell gtst from gtr unless its badged.. unless they own one)

  • 2 weeks later...

i had a evo 6 for 2years or so, it was the first evo 6 evo imports sold.

it was there compliance test car & so was in excellent stock condition. i did the usual mods (zorst, piggyback ecu, ebc, intake, coilies, chassis braces). in the end it put out 300hp at all 4 it had heaps of response/bottom end but midrange/topend was seriously lacking, so not my kind of 'fun' turbo car. handling & roadholding was great as well as reliability - nothing ever broke or wore out in 40k kms of my ownership.

now lets compare 6/7 (hardly any differences really with the 6/tme, mainly cosmetic)

evo 6 has slightly bigger turbine housing (same size as 8MR)

evo 6 weighs 1360kg, evo 7 weighs 1400kg so not a lot of difference at all there

evo 7 has slightly longer wheelbase & slightly wider track. also stock rims are 17x8 as opposed to 17x7.5

evo 7 has stronger rear diff, some people can have issues with the evo6 diff & then upgrade to the later one

evo 7 has much better recaro seats than the ones in the 6 - much better lateral support.

evo 7 ECU can easily be reflashed, evo 6 can only be done by 1 person in SA.

evo 7 has nicer steering wheel.

35k is way too much for a stock evo 7 from a dealer. you should be able to get a very nice one for around 28 or so.

evo imports (& the other main evo dealer) can afford to have asking prices in the higher ranges cause they get plenty of 'walk ins' that will pay those numbers & because the cars are ready to go.

the warranties are very limited in actual payout amounts for each type of fault.

cheers

whilst not an evo, i've got a legnum, which has the AYC and a few other bits and pieces from the evo 4-6 range,

i love the AYC system, it has an aggressive feel to it, yet is easy to control, and if you push it too far, it tends to oversteer, so it doesnt feel like you are going to fly off into a ditch in a hurry. (that could be due to my wagon being obviously more rear end heavy though...)

ive test drivin an evo 8 from evolution imports, damn i was impressed if i could afford to have one of them and a skyline i would for sure!! heaps of room in the back seat 4 doors, nice and roomy like a big family sedan but just with rally bred performance!! buy one

An Evo is a totally different animal to a Skyline, and as a performance car probobly a better proposition for the most part.

4 doors gives you practicality, and sure you can get a 4 door skyline but for the most part they dont really have much rear space.

For tight twisty stuff, no GTR will touch an Evo - they are just so chuckable, and when you think they are out of grip they just dig deep and give you more.

Sure they dont have a big motor so arnt really a top end monster with the standard turbo etc, but thats not what the car is about.

They also seem to be more reliable for the most part then most other japanses turbo cars - dont spin big ends like dak dak subarus and dont drop oil pumps and all the rest of it with GTR's. But they arnt perfect, and clutch changes are hell for whoever does them. Being a Mitsi, avoid ones from snowy areas in Japan as they will be the ones to get rust cancer first. Typical roof rust issues, which seems to have existed from day 1.

I've been lucky enough to drive 6 TME, 7 JDM, 7 GTA (auto - interesting!), 8 Aus, 8 JDM and 8 MR. Id rather a 7 then a 6, just feels like a more competent car, but the 6.5 sure feels pretty raw, and thus fun.

Interestingly, the first Jap 8 I drove happened to be Nigels after he sold it :blush:

Edited by teejay

I have driven an Evo 7 and its very nice - quick point to point car.

The only criticism would be the interior - its pretty ordinary - even compared to a humble skyline.

I guess the decision ultimately is a personal one.

:thumbsup:

taking the stickers away would be like taking the GTR badge off a gtr, so it'll still be the same car.. just abit more like a sleeper.. if ur into that.. (most people cant tell gtst from gtr unless its badged.. unless they own one)

and you don't have to worry about traffic light warriors "wanting to beat a GTR" all the time.

Sleeper ftw! :devil:

  • 3 weeks later...

after having 33gtst 34gtr and 34gtt, i thought my next ride will be the 35gtr how ever with the price of fule n me not doing as well as i use to in the "savings/spendings" i had a look around and drove lots of diffrent cars. a few bmws, audis, stis. gtirs, and evos.

every car has its advantages n dissadvantages. I found the EVO 8MR a very practical and fun ride. only if it had a little more top end and less clutch problems and rust. one thing that grew on me is the fact that you will drive past a cop and most of them wont look 2wice at you. thinking ur in a lancer :D IM SICK OF YELLOW STIKERS and FINES GOD KNOWS IV HAD MY TOWNS SHARE.

the 1st 3 gears in the MR are extreemly fun, it loves the wet and bumpy roads. and did a 12.9 in a fully stock MR down the mile.

drive a few and know ur in for some high driving costs, maintanace and insurance.. however at least less drama with the cops and less attractiveness..

For tight twisty stuff, no GTR will touch an Evo - they are just so chuckable, and when you think they are out of grip they just dig deep and give you more.

and it doesn't end with GT-R's either TJ. When I went to Bathurst last year, the EVO's absolutely creamed ANYTHING in the production races - Porsches, Lambos, Lotus, HSV. The gap would close on the big straights, but the time the EVO gained up through the top of the mountain (paticularly Skyline) cancelled out any lost advantage in top speed.

2ebbsdh.jpg

Was awesome to watch, and the above was often the view every single time they approached my vantage point!

Edited by gun-r32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...