Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

But its the stickers that seperate them and make them stand out as "something special". :woot:

Taking the stickers away would be like putting GTR badges on a GTS. Its makes your car look dumb instantly, and ppl assume the same of the driver/owner LOL

Not trying to spark a debate or anything, just my opinion :D

taking the stickers away would be like taking the GTR badge off a gtr, so it'll still be the same car.. just abit more like a sleeper.. if ur into that.. (most people cant tell gtst from gtr unless its badged.. unless they own one)

  • 2 weeks later...

i had a evo 6 for 2years or so, it was the first evo 6 evo imports sold.

it was there compliance test car & so was in excellent stock condition. i did the usual mods (zorst, piggyback ecu, ebc, intake, coilies, chassis braces). in the end it put out 300hp at all 4 it had heaps of response/bottom end but midrange/topend was seriously lacking, so not my kind of 'fun' turbo car. handling & roadholding was great as well as reliability - nothing ever broke or wore out in 40k kms of my ownership.

now lets compare 6/7 (hardly any differences really with the 6/tme, mainly cosmetic)

evo 6 has slightly bigger turbine housing (same size as 8MR)

evo 6 weighs 1360kg, evo 7 weighs 1400kg so not a lot of difference at all there

evo 7 has slightly longer wheelbase & slightly wider track. also stock rims are 17x8 as opposed to 17x7.5

evo 7 has stronger rear diff, some people can have issues with the evo6 diff & then upgrade to the later one

evo 7 has much better recaro seats than the ones in the 6 - much better lateral support.

evo 7 ECU can easily be reflashed, evo 6 can only be done by 1 person in SA.

evo 7 has nicer steering wheel.

35k is way too much for a stock evo 7 from a dealer. you should be able to get a very nice one for around 28 or so.

evo imports (& the other main evo dealer) can afford to have asking prices in the higher ranges cause they get plenty of 'walk ins' that will pay those numbers & because the cars are ready to go.

the warranties are very limited in actual payout amounts for each type of fault.

cheers

whilst not an evo, i've got a legnum, which has the AYC and a few other bits and pieces from the evo 4-6 range,

i love the AYC system, it has an aggressive feel to it, yet is easy to control, and if you push it too far, it tends to oversteer, so it doesnt feel like you are going to fly off into a ditch in a hurry. (that could be due to my wagon being obviously more rear end heavy though...)

ive test drivin an evo 8 from evolution imports, damn i was impressed if i could afford to have one of them and a skyline i would for sure!! heaps of room in the back seat 4 doors, nice and roomy like a big family sedan but just with rally bred performance!! buy one

An Evo is a totally different animal to a Skyline, and as a performance car probobly a better proposition for the most part.

4 doors gives you practicality, and sure you can get a 4 door skyline but for the most part they dont really have much rear space.

For tight twisty stuff, no GTR will touch an Evo - they are just so chuckable, and when you think they are out of grip they just dig deep and give you more.

Sure they dont have a big motor so arnt really a top end monster with the standard turbo etc, but thats not what the car is about.

They also seem to be more reliable for the most part then most other japanses turbo cars - dont spin big ends like dak dak subarus and dont drop oil pumps and all the rest of it with GTR's. But they arnt perfect, and clutch changes are hell for whoever does them. Being a Mitsi, avoid ones from snowy areas in Japan as they will be the ones to get rust cancer first. Typical roof rust issues, which seems to have existed from day 1.

I've been lucky enough to drive 6 TME, 7 JDM, 7 GTA (auto - interesting!), 8 Aus, 8 JDM and 8 MR. Id rather a 7 then a 6, just feels like a more competent car, but the 6.5 sure feels pretty raw, and thus fun.

Interestingly, the first Jap 8 I drove happened to be Nigels after he sold it :blush:

Edited by teejay

I have driven an Evo 7 and its very nice - quick point to point car.

The only criticism would be the interior - its pretty ordinary - even compared to a humble skyline.

I guess the decision ultimately is a personal one.

:thumbsup:

taking the stickers away would be like taking the GTR badge off a gtr, so it'll still be the same car.. just abit more like a sleeper.. if ur into that.. (most people cant tell gtst from gtr unless its badged.. unless they own one)

and you don't have to worry about traffic light warriors "wanting to beat a GTR" all the time.

Sleeper ftw! :devil:

  • 3 weeks later...

after having 33gtst 34gtr and 34gtt, i thought my next ride will be the 35gtr how ever with the price of fule n me not doing as well as i use to in the "savings/spendings" i had a look around and drove lots of diffrent cars. a few bmws, audis, stis. gtirs, and evos.

every car has its advantages n dissadvantages. I found the EVO 8MR a very practical and fun ride. only if it had a little more top end and less clutch problems and rust. one thing that grew on me is the fact that you will drive past a cop and most of them wont look 2wice at you. thinking ur in a lancer :D IM SICK OF YELLOW STIKERS and FINES GOD KNOWS IV HAD MY TOWNS SHARE.

the 1st 3 gears in the MR are extreemly fun, it loves the wet and bumpy roads. and did a 12.9 in a fully stock MR down the mile.

drive a few and know ur in for some high driving costs, maintanace and insurance.. however at least less drama with the cops and less attractiveness..

For tight twisty stuff, no GTR will touch an Evo - they are just so chuckable, and when you think they are out of grip they just dig deep and give you more.

and it doesn't end with GT-R's either TJ. When I went to Bathurst last year, the EVO's absolutely creamed ANYTHING in the production races - Porsches, Lambos, Lotus, HSV. The gap would close on the big straights, but the time the EVO gained up through the top of the mountain (paticularly Skyline) cancelled out any lost advantage in top speed.

2ebbsdh.jpg

Was awesome to watch, and the above was often the view every single time they approached my vantage point!

Edited by gun-r32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...