Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

But its the stickers that seperate them and make them stand out as "something special". :woot:

Taking the stickers away would be like putting GTR badges on a GTS. Its makes your car look dumb instantly, and ppl assume the same of the driver/owner LOL

Not trying to spark a debate or anything, just my opinion :D

taking the stickers away would be like taking the GTR badge off a gtr, so it'll still be the same car.. just abit more like a sleeper.. if ur into that.. (most people cant tell gtst from gtr unless its badged.. unless they own one)

  • 2 weeks later...

i had a evo 6 for 2years or so, it was the first evo 6 evo imports sold.

it was there compliance test car & so was in excellent stock condition. i did the usual mods (zorst, piggyback ecu, ebc, intake, coilies, chassis braces). in the end it put out 300hp at all 4 it had heaps of response/bottom end but midrange/topend was seriously lacking, so not my kind of 'fun' turbo car. handling & roadholding was great as well as reliability - nothing ever broke or wore out in 40k kms of my ownership.

now lets compare 6/7 (hardly any differences really with the 6/tme, mainly cosmetic)

evo 6 has slightly bigger turbine housing (same size as 8MR)

evo 6 weighs 1360kg, evo 7 weighs 1400kg so not a lot of difference at all there

evo 7 has slightly longer wheelbase & slightly wider track. also stock rims are 17x8 as opposed to 17x7.5

evo 7 has stronger rear diff, some people can have issues with the evo6 diff & then upgrade to the later one

evo 7 has much better recaro seats than the ones in the 6 - much better lateral support.

evo 7 ECU can easily be reflashed, evo 6 can only be done by 1 person in SA.

evo 7 has nicer steering wheel.

35k is way too much for a stock evo 7 from a dealer. you should be able to get a very nice one for around 28 or so.

evo imports (& the other main evo dealer) can afford to have asking prices in the higher ranges cause they get plenty of 'walk ins' that will pay those numbers & because the cars are ready to go.

the warranties are very limited in actual payout amounts for each type of fault.

cheers

whilst not an evo, i've got a legnum, which has the AYC and a few other bits and pieces from the evo 4-6 range,

i love the AYC system, it has an aggressive feel to it, yet is easy to control, and if you push it too far, it tends to oversteer, so it doesnt feel like you are going to fly off into a ditch in a hurry. (that could be due to my wagon being obviously more rear end heavy though...)

ive test drivin an evo 8 from evolution imports, damn i was impressed if i could afford to have one of them and a skyline i would for sure!! heaps of room in the back seat 4 doors, nice and roomy like a big family sedan but just with rally bred performance!! buy one

An Evo is a totally different animal to a Skyline, and as a performance car probobly a better proposition for the most part.

4 doors gives you practicality, and sure you can get a 4 door skyline but for the most part they dont really have much rear space.

For tight twisty stuff, no GTR will touch an Evo - they are just so chuckable, and when you think they are out of grip they just dig deep and give you more.

Sure they dont have a big motor so arnt really a top end monster with the standard turbo etc, but thats not what the car is about.

They also seem to be more reliable for the most part then most other japanses turbo cars - dont spin big ends like dak dak subarus and dont drop oil pumps and all the rest of it with GTR's. But they arnt perfect, and clutch changes are hell for whoever does them. Being a Mitsi, avoid ones from snowy areas in Japan as they will be the ones to get rust cancer first. Typical roof rust issues, which seems to have existed from day 1.

I've been lucky enough to drive 6 TME, 7 JDM, 7 GTA (auto - interesting!), 8 Aus, 8 JDM and 8 MR. Id rather a 7 then a 6, just feels like a more competent car, but the 6.5 sure feels pretty raw, and thus fun.

Interestingly, the first Jap 8 I drove happened to be Nigels after he sold it :blush:

Edited by teejay

I have driven an Evo 7 and its very nice - quick point to point car.

The only criticism would be the interior - its pretty ordinary - even compared to a humble skyline.

I guess the decision ultimately is a personal one.

:thumbsup:

taking the stickers away would be like taking the GTR badge off a gtr, so it'll still be the same car.. just abit more like a sleeper.. if ur into that.. (most people cant tell gtst from gtr unless its badged.. unless they own one)

and you don't have to worry about traffic light warriors "wanting to beat a GTR" all the time.

Sleeper ftw! :devil:

  • 3 weeks later...

after having 33gtst 34gtr and 34gtt, i thought my next ride will be the 35gtr how ever with the price of fule n me not doing as well as i use to in the "savings/spendings" i had a look around and drove lots of diffrent cars. a few bmws, audis, stis. gtirs, and evos.

every car has its advantages n dissadvantages. I found the EVO 8MR a very practical and fun ride. only if it had a little more top end and less clutch problems and rust. one thing that grew on me is the fact that you will drive past a cop and most of them wont look 2wice at you. thinking ur in a lancer :D IM SICK OF YELLOW STIKERS and FINES GOD KNOWS IV HAD MY TOWNS SHARE.

the 1st 3 gears in the MR are extreemly fun, it loves the wet and bumpy roads. and did a 12.9 in a fully stock MR down the mile.

drive a few and know ur in for some high driving costs, maintanace and insurance.. however at least less drama with the cops and less attractiveness..

For tight twisty stuff, no GTR will touch an Evo - they are just so chuckable, and when you think they are out of grip they just dig deep and give you more.

and it doesn't end with GT-R's either TJ. When I went to Bathurst last year, the EVO's absolutely creamed ANYTHING in the production races - Porsches, Lambos, Lotus, HSV. The gap would close on the big straights, but the time the EVO gained up through the top of the mountain (paticularly Skyline) cancelled out any lost advantage in top speed.

2ebbsdh.jpg

Was awesome to watch, and the above was often the view every single time they approached my vantage point!

Edited by gun-r32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...