Jump to content
SAU Community

Changed Plugs

trel

By trel,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

trel Mentor

trel

Posted
Posted

So anyway, I changed my plugs yesterday got some NGK BCP6RES gapped to 0.7mm. Proceed to put them in, put everything back together, then start my car...

Now the fun begins. So I start her up and she is idling like SHIT, then stalls on me. I sit there cursing like no tommorow at the fact that I had to put everything back together to start the bastard and now its not running right...

I started again and took her for a drive, car drives like a dream, feels like a brand new car, throttle resposne is back! So I take car home and it's purring like a kitten. I thought OK, let me turn it off and start again. No dramas. Car runs nice. No misses on idle. (used to miss a little until I changed plugs)

What the hell would of caused it to run like that straight after I changed my plugs? New gaps? ECU freaking out at new gaps maybe and had to re-adjust?

Cheers,

trel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226799-changed-plugs/
Share on other sites
turbo_brian Community Regular

turbo_brian

Posted
Posted

Did you take the battery off at all while doing this?

Reason I ask is it sounds like the ECU went into learning mode for some reason. When this happens, the ECU retards everything and then the sensors all read everything, and start advancing everything, cranking up the power making bits to tune everything back in.

B.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226799-changed-plugs/#findComment-3997939
Share on other sites
DECIM8 Grand Master

DECIM8

Posted
Posted (edited)

you did everything fine, The computer needs to re-think/learn every time you do a mod. Disconnect and pump brake otherwise drive it around and piss it off until it clicks it and figures out what the issue is.

Had the same drama however It did miss a little at very light throttle on the stock ecu.. Powerfc it doesnt but I cant really hear anything apart from windows shaking.

It will require a slight thrashing to get it back .. however 0.8 would of been better and 0.9 pushing it bigger spark is better if your not getting any issues

Edited by DECIM8
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226799-changed-plugs/#findComment-3998027
Share on other sites
Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted

Fitting plugs does not require the disconnecting of the battery :thumbsup: Did u wash the engine? Maybe some moisture got into the spark plug tubes and it arced until it dried up. If it were me id gap as big as i could until it missed as you are really cutting your spark down.

Deren

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226799-changed-plugs/#findComment-4005241
Share on other sites
RustyR32Gtst Mentor

RustyR32Gtst

Posted
Posted
Fitting plugs does not require the disconnecting of the battery :P Did u wash the engine? Maybe some moisture got into the spark plug tubes and it arced until it dried up. If it were me id gap as big as i could until it missed as you are really cutting your spark down.

Deren

Disconnecting the battery is not required to fit plugs but is a good habit to get into when ever working on an engine. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226799-changed-plugs/#findComment-4005460
Share on other sites
jeffworld2 Veteran

jeffworld2

Posted
Posted

sounds like a bit of shit got in there thats all. i wouldnt worry over it. there is a very good reason for removing the earth off the battery when working on a car, its nothing to do with the ecu, and more to do with having the head off, dropping a screwdriver onto the starter motor and watching the engine spin without oil :)

only thing that could really go wrong is if you didnt put all the cooler pipes and vacum lines on right, and that would not have fixed itself

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226799-changed-plugs/#findComment-4006680
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • MBS206
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • dbm7
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • Duncan
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By Duncan · Posted

      I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • soviet_merlin
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
×
×
  • Create New...