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well, as the topic title says... replaced timing belt. everything done according to the book thing.

everything happens when starter motor turns except for the actual engine running part.

engine became flooded and plugs got wet so replaced them as quick easy fix.

still not starting

timing is right

cams are right

CAS is right

exhaust smells like petrol and there is no suction from the intake.

does anybody know what in gods name is going on?

Is it cranking over normally or does it sound different? Check for vital signs IE: spark, fuel, check compression. Narrow down which you dont have. Its impossible to work out whats wrong by guessing. Need to do a process of ellimination.

if there is ZERO suction from the intake, there must be a leak somewhere. Where that is, im not sure, its your job to narrow this down. Check cooler pipes, recheck teh spark plugs, and check everything that seals that you touched before the change (within reason).

Good luck

have checked and rechecked everything. everything that was touched has been replaced as it was before.

when it cranks it doesn't sound any different to what it would normally and by all rights it **should** be sparking, but i'll check that when i take plugs out to do comp check.

as for leaks on intake, it's a non turbo so it was pretty easy to remove all the intake piping and there is no suction at the manifold.

everything was done following a workshop manual and using the proper tools for the job. time to recheck everything again, comp test, spark test, and if all else fails, get it towed to a workshop and shell out a million billion dollars to have someone else fix it :P

So the belt is on correctly with all your marks lined up correctly? Correct tension so it hasnt skipped teeth? If i was still in melbourne id gladly come take a look. Sounds interesting and i'd like to figure out whats gone wrong. Try winding the engine over by hand and see how it feels.

Try winding the engine over by hand and see how it feels.

This is what I prefer to do when I have done a Timing belt, if the belt goes all the way around and tension doesn't change at all as I wind, then there is no contact with vavles and other internal parts of the engine, and it's that 1 step closer in the process of the job :woot:

Also means if I have skipped a tooth or something similar, turning by hand wont do damage compared to what a starter motor can do, as I have seen starter motors have enough torque to lift a car.

B.

This is what I prefer to do when I have done a Timing belt, if the belt goes all the way around and tension doesn't change at all as I wind, then there is no contact with vavles and other internal parts of the engine, and it's that 1 step closer in the process of the job :D

Also means if I have skipped a tooth or something similar, turning by hand wont do damage compared to what a starter motor can do, as I have seen starter motors have enough torque to lift a car.

B.

Its also a crucial part of fitting a timing belt and not optional by any means. You should set belt tension on the longest length of belt after the crank pulley, and lock the tensioner. Then you MUST wind it over 2 full revolutions by hand and re-line your marks to check they are still as they should be. Crack the tensioner bolt once more and recheck tension if it is a spring adjusted tensioner.

Good luck with the car mate. Seems strange that the CAS was ok before you did the belt change but not after. Stranger things have happened though :)

Deren

if the CAS was buggered, i wouldnt think the injectors would fire.

checked the wiring on the CAS, had an issue with a customer car where a wire cracked after removing the CAS from the wiring to coat the parts, soldered up and off it went.

sounds like this (hopefully) won't be too hard on the wallet then

all i have to do is wait til the mechanic decides to come to work. he called in sick today.

meanwhile i'm stuck driving a mid 80's camry with no cd player, no balls, and a broken mirror (kindly loaned by my girlfriend's mum)

the only good thing about all this is that, in said camry, i don't smash my elbow on my baby seat every time i change gears.

got a call from actual genuine import workshop about it today

the tool who did it (admittedly, i asked him to do the job instead of getting it done right in the first place) didn't reattach the CAS properly and stripped some kind of linkage between the CAS and the cam shaft

or something

what he said was, if i'm honest, completely over my head but i understood the basics, just not what was going on.

they reckon i'll have a quote before they close today, hopefully i can pick it up after work tomorrow :thumbsup:

There is a splined shaft that runs the CAS off the front of the exhaust cam. It also has a keyway to locate it and i guess if that wasnt fitted correctly you could stuff it when you tried to wind it over.

got a call from actual genuine import workshop about it today

the tool who did it (admittedly, i asked him to do the job instead of getting it done right in the first place) didn't reattach the CAS properly and stripped some kind of linkage between the CAS and the cam shaft

or something

what he said was, if i'm honest, completely over my head but i understood the basics, just not what was going on.

they reckon i'll have a quote before they close today, hopefully i can pick it up after work tomorrow :P

Bet he's broken the half-moon key in the end of the exhaust cam. Which is what I suggested days ago!

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