Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: forged rb 2.7 litre engine

Age: 2 years

Condition: in very good running order

Price: $12000

To Fit: (What car) any skyline / project

Location: melb

Contact: 0418 170 234

Comments: im selling my rb 26 engine it has full rebuilt trust forged engine 2.7 litre making way for my new HKS 2.8 litre high deck , yes its time for this engine to go in , hoping to get this done by weds , the trust engine is out , has forged trust pistons , trust rods,trust crank , greddy oil pump , yes oil pump,trust cams , specs soon ,trust valves springs , port and polish, engine has made over 1200hp measured on a dyno pack , serious enqiures only , turbo not included , nor the ecu this is used in the hks 2.8 , any one have the HPI mag vol 29 , its the orange R34 thats the car RK reckless tune shop japan , and yes i have the car still for anyone to veiw in melb if you think you can build a engine for less good luck trying to beat the reliable japan built drag engine

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227079-trust-27-rb-26-complete-engine/
Share on other sites

engine just removed from the car at oh performance today , there you will find most of the fastest gtr in melb , pics tommorow , fegot to mention that this car has run a 8.7 et at 167 mph

TRANSLATION!

Item: forged rb 2.7 litre engine...for the moment

Age: 2 years...or so i say

Condition: in very good running order...but thats before you get here.

Price: $12000 PAY $2000 UP FRONT MAN, NON REFUNDABLE

To Fit: (What car) any skyline / project

Location: melb Yeah

Contact: 0418 170 234 - Paid your bill yet?

Comments: ok guys i got this engine right you should totoally buy it its got all this brand name shit on here but please beware when you come to pickup the motor it might not have any of the stuff anymore cause like the stuff got damaged in the shipping container and im not gunna give you a discount for it and like totally i swear to god im not trying to rip you off. Yeah man nah i know its missing all the shit I said it had in the ad, but trsut me man you dont know what its supposed to come with just buy it anyway, just yeah.. oh and yeah half the shit is rusted and missing, but you'll still pay me full price right?

Yeah that's my experience dealing with this guy with a halfcut.. Advertied with full interior, all pics etc.. was missing everythign from the interior, even gauges etc.... Great aye.. Waste of a trip to melb.

Edit OH I RUN A SHOP BTW BUT IM TOO MUCH OF A TIGHTASS TO BECOME A SAU TRADER!! AND IVE BEEN BANNED SO MANY TIMES!!

Edited by benzau

BENZAU

i dont know what your soooking over the half cut that you asked me to get it came , it came you saw , but you changed your mind , what did you expect as a half cut ! but then again you drive a aussie car , that says it all ! im sure it was at the end over a roof linning only that you are sooking over everything else was there ,

I know that we arent supposed to chat on sale threads but if I were in the market for a 1200hp engine that is as your selling it there is only 2 ways you could buy it.

1. See the dyno run in person and watch it be removed from the car.

2. Inspect it in disassembled form and have the parts individually inspected by a suitably qualified NDT engineer.

Isnt $12k way too cheap for an engine like this?...

ok its a good price for this engine , the sump getting removed tommorow for inspection ,a report will be set out then , im guessing 12 k is the sale price , all you need to look at the HPI vol #29 you see the car , you can see the car in person at this workshop , inspect the engine there or know someone to see it in person ,cant be more fairer than that

BENZAU

i dont know what your soooking over the half cut that you asked me to get it came , it came you saw , but you changed your mind , what did you expect as a half cut ! but then again you drive a aussie car , that says it all ! im sure it was at the end over a roof linning only that you are sooking over everything else was there ,

Brembo's were missing, gauges were missing, seats were missing (and you offered a $200 refund for them..for R32 GT-R Seats), carpet was missing, door trims were missing, all the Nismo caps were missing out of the engine bay, wiring was missing, CF Gear knob and shift knob were missing, Nismo side repeaters were missing.... Need I say anymore? I changed my mind after blowing 1k on driving down there, ahuh, sure matey...Amazing you started to find bits when we started asking questions, but apart from that, a lot of other shit was missing and it wasnt worth my time or hassle to deal with getting ripped off by some dodgy auto importer mate.

And yeah, when you tow a drift car around, you tend to have some form of V8, or an Aristo if you swing that way.. Sorry buddy, no dice, not the first person you've tried to screw from what we've heard either....

Edit:

I know that we arent supposed to chat on sale threads but if I were in the market for a 1200hp engine that is as your selling it there is only 2 ways you could buy it.

1. See the dyno run in person and watch it be removed from the car.

2. Inspect it in disassembled form and have the parts individually inspected by a suitably qualified NDT engineer.

Isnt $12k way too cheap for an engine like this?...

It is, and like I said, I and my business partner forked out of a halfcut that was advertised as coming with an exhaust, CF interior bits, nismo bits and pieces and brembo's.. Saw pics of the fully assembled car in JP, and what was said in PM's was "everything you see here".. what we got offered was a car that had obviously had the eyes picked out of it, and when we saw the rear cradle it looked like it'd been sitting outside for years...Not good when you drive down from sydney to do a pickup.

Edited by benzau

your full of shit mate , you need to look at the pics i sent you , as you can see there would not be a exhaust , it was hard rear damage , as for the brembos and others , due to your trip takings months to finnally come to pick it up , it had to be stored at another place and yes i did remove all the high risk items that would of been stolen , any one with a half a brain would of done the same , so buddy cool it , go back home , no use choffing over some thing you could of had , its gone now

Sounds like you are an importer/trader of sorts 'jim'

Do not open another thread in the classifieds until such time as you become a registered trader and pay to advertise, or a ban will result.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...