Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heading back out to WSID next wednesday armed with a decent wheel/tyre combo . On paper from the previous runs the car has a 10 in it with current power (just under 350kwaw on CRD's dyno) . I wouldn't mind having just a little bit more power to make the job easier . The thing is I'm running gt-ss turbos at 1.4bar so I haven't really got any head room here as this amount of boost is pretty much it for these turbo's . I was thinking about getting the car tuned on some better fuel I don't really have a big understanding on the race fuels what should I look at using and what type of gains can be had?? . I'd be happy with a 20kw gain at the wheels just to make my job a tiny bit easier .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227098-running-my-gtr-on-better-fuel/
Share on other sites

Simply adding C16 won't do the trick. You'd be better off buying one of the many racing unleadeds and having the car tuned to suit. It's not all about the octane rating of the fuel though as some race fuels will burn quicker than pump and require a richer setting on your fuel maps. Only then will they be able to take the added timing and make some more power.

Out of interest, C16 has its place but IMHO it's sure as shit not in a street-driven RB26 like yours. It's a leaded fuel which has implications for O2 sensors, catalytic converters and the EPA, the last of which comes with a free multi-thousand-dollar fine if you're busted running it on the street.

Simply adding C16 won't do the trick. You'd be better off buying one of the many racing unleadeds and having the car tuned to suit. It's not all about the octane rating of the fuel though as some race fuels will burn quicker than pump and require a richer setting on your fuel maps. Only then will they be able to take the added timing and make some more power.

Out of interest, C16 has its place but IMHO it's sure as shit not in a street-driven RB26 like yours. It's a leaded fuel which has implications for O2 sensors, catalytic converters and the EPA, the last of which comes with a free multi-thousand-dollar fine if you're busted running it on the street.

I never knew C16 was leaded.... I think Elf makes a decent high octane

yeh C16 is out of the question . Spoke to Jim at CRD yesterday about maybe tuning the car on vp109 or something similiar for next wednesday but he wasn't too interested in doing it .

Find another tuner?

i definitely wouldnt look for another tuner - im sure the likes of ppl that have been around for quite some time such as paul (dirtgarage) will agree with me that jim @ crd is the beez kneez of tuning :D

the problem you will also have is that your power fc will be locked by jim which means that if another was to retune they would need to initialise.

run a nos shot :ermm: that will give that edge you're looking!

seriously though, you want to run a 10 on pump fuel so that you can tell your mates that it is a street car with street tune. thats my angle anyway

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...