Jump to content
SAU Community

Help With Some General Maintenance On My R33

ScaryTed77

By ScaryTed77,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

ScaryTed77 Collaborator

ScaryTed77

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

My mechanic and I have just been going though some minor issues he has noted with my R33 (1996 R33 GTST S2). Was hoping someone on here might be able to point me in the right direction for some of these things:

*Minor rust treatment- there is some minor surface rust on the rear cross member (diff support). Am hoping that there is a good spray on solution to deal with this. From searching, I've read that 'Kill Rust' and 'Cold Galv' are good for this kind of thing. Where would I get these? Anything else that would be better to treat rust?

*Driver's side rear steering rack boot- this boot is split, and I don't want crap to get in there so I'm looking to replace it (am thinking I might as well buy two while I'm at it). I've read this thread but that seems to be in relation to the front. Any tips as to where I would buy these?

*Gearbox oil leaking out of breather- I recently had my gearbox oil changed and had some Redline oil put in. Apparently a small amount of gearbox oil is leaking out of the breather. Oil levels for the gearbox are fine- doesn't look to have been an overfilling problem. Anyone come across this before? Suggestions?

*Noisy power steering pump- This is a strange one, and my mechanic says he thinks its just a design flaw with how the pump works. Basically, when you go to full lock or near full lock the pump is really noisy. From what my mechanic has discovered it looks to be a result of the pump ingesting air because of how quickly the fluid gushes out of the reservoir. The reservoir is filled to the appropriate level, and if you watch fluid levels when you turn the car on the reservoir very quickly empties about 1 quarter of the fluid in it. Turn the car off, and the reservoir fluid levels return to full just as quickly.

Many thanks for any help / advice you can offer. I have tried to search for all of the above on here before posting, so apologies if anything I've asked has already been answered. Cheers.

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

i would use a POR 15 product on the diff cradle - use the prep and finish to kill the existing rust, then protect it.

you could always go as far as getting it sandblasted and powdercoated.

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted
i would use a POR 15 product on the diff cradle - use the prep and finish to kill the existing rust, then protect it.

you could always go as far as getting it sandblasted and powdercoated.

I've used some rust off (rost off?) on my diff area, I went over it with a metal brush and then coated it in a rust converter, then a rust primer, then a paint over it to prevent it happening again.

ScaryTed77 Collaborator

ScaryTed77

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
i would use a POR 15 product on the diff cradle - use the prep and finish to kill the existing rust, then protect it.

you could always go as far as getting it sandblasted and powdercoated.

Excuse my ignorance, but what do you mean by a 'POR 15' product?

EDIT: ah, you mean this stuff? http://www.por15.com/

Looks good, I'll try to order some. Know any good places in Aus to buy it from?

A silly question maybe but have you filled the P/S while the engine is running and bled it of air. Im guessing your mechanic would do that but thought i may aswell ask.

Nah, not a silly question. Pretty sure that has been tried though, I'll double check. If I run out of things to try, I might even get the Billion replacement reservoir and see how that goes.

Thanks for the replies guys.

Edited by bnew
jeffworld2 Veteran

jeffworld2

Posted
Posted

fill the steering fluid while someone else turns it back and forth with car on and wheels on the ground. easiest way. power steering does funny things with air in it. A lot of cars are a bit noisy on full lock, but if you can see the fluid dissapear, then the system is not as full as it looks.

If you have a look how power steering works it would make a lot of sense

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
Excuse my ignorance, but what do you mean by a 'POR 15' product?

EDIT: ah, you mean this stuff? http://www.por15.com/

Looks good, I'll try to order some. Know any good places in Aus to buy it from?

http://www.volvodownunder.com.au/ sells it

my local Tool shop sells it - sells tools and builders suplies and tools. might have something local like that to you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • joshuaho96
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • BOLGE
      R34 Plug Identification

      By BOLGE · Posted

      Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...