Jump to content
SAU Community

Anyone Able To Make Me One Of These?

Silver_R34_GT-T

By Silver_R34_GT-T,
in Fabrication

 Share

Recommended Posts

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted

nice job man

have you got an intake routing air in from underneath?

edit: actually i see you're using the stock intercooler, which means you dont have a free hole for the intake.

do you think enough air is getting to the pod through that snorkel?

my theory is :P that the snorkel's mouth is hidden from direct airflow by the bonnet. so the only way to get air through it is if it's sucked in. that wont happen unless the box is well sealed.

G0DZLR Mentor

G0DZLR

Posted
Posted
Heres my go at it on a R33 ! Cant be much different for a R34 I should think !

post-6582-1218027906_thumb.jpgpost-6582-1218027939_thumb.jpg[attachment=174981:004.jpg

Heres my go at it !

thats the exact kit i was on about....whatd you make it out of and yes, does it have an additional inlet?

PLYNX Mentor

PLYNX

Posted
Posted

Guys air is also pulled into it from behind the front head light. Still working on the side panel that isolates the pod from the engine heat. Reworking the panel as a twin walled partishon with fiberglass in between about 1cm apart. Not happy with pods though cause if any oil gets on your afm the computer reads it as rich and leans it down. Already lost one exhaust scroll that way on a mates car. Went so lean it began to crystalise the cast iron and cracked the hell out of it. Im working on a tripple stock panel filter box arrangement that fits inside the whole thing.

Yes at the moment stock intercoooler but I have a large front mount that plumps back into the original pipe work. A panel sits on top of the intercooler and dirrects air up into the snorkel

  • 4 months later...
RBPOWA-(TJ) Grand Master

RBPOWA-(TJ)

Posted
Posted

that looks great PLYNX

was thinking somtihng like that for my stagea using the snorkle, just to keep that stock look.

didnt have the brain power and patients for it tho, just did the standard box in the corner with air feed from below.

but for air feed, that snorkel was put there by nissan for a reason. so of course it must get air flow.

has anyone had trouble when washing the car. does the high pressure wash go up the air feed into the filter

PLYNX Mentor

PLYNX

Posted
Posted

Its pretty involved and needs a bit of reveres thinking. To make the bit that goes into the snorkel i got a piece of pvc plumbing tubing that fits into the snorkle. Cut two small pieces of the pvc and bolted them to a block of wood. Waxed it and fiberglassed around it. That gives you the oval that fit into the snorkel. Then you take the pvc tube and bolt it to the outside at each end of the oval and fiberglass the underside of the tube and that gives you the revere profile. So now youve got an oval with what looks like two half circles at either end. Then you take a sheet of cardboard and measure out the top shape, transfer it to a sheet of polypropylene( the same stuff that Maccas food trays are made out of ) fiberglass that with a thin sheet so its still flexable. Positon the oval on the lid on the car in the correct height and positon and lightly fiberglass it together. Once thats done build the ramp that goes towards the gard, cut out the underside of the lid so it will feed air from the snorked and the proceed to build up the fibergass to the shape of where the gard and radiator support is.

Thats the simplified version of how its done

Easy ! Well not really ! Just time consuming !

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...