Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nice job man

have you got an intake routing air in from underneath?

edit: actually i see you're using the stock intercooler, which means you dont have a free hole for the intake.

do you think enough air is getting to the pod through that snorkel?

my theory is :P that the snorkel's mouth is hidden from direct airflow by the bonnet. so the only way to get air through it is if it's sucked in. that wont happen unless the box is well sealed.

Heres my go at it on a R33 ! Cant be much different for a R34 I should think !

post-6582-1218027906_thumb.jpgpost-6582-1218027939_thumb.jpg[attachment=174981:004.jpg

Heres my go at it !

thats the exact kit i was on about....whatd you make it out of and yes, does it have an additional inlet?

Guys air is also pulled into it from behind the front head light. Still working on the side panel that isolates the pod from the engine heat. Reworking the panel as a twin walled partishon with fiberglass in between about 1cm apart. Not happy with pods though cause if any oil gets on your afm the computer reads it as rich and leans it down. Already lost one exhaust scroll that way on a mates car. Went so lean it began to crystalise the cast iron and cracked the hell out of it. Im working on a tripple stock panel filter box arrangement that fits inside the whole thing.

Yes at the moment stock intercoooler but I have a large front mount that plumps back into the original pipe work. A panel sits on top of the intercooler and dirrects air up into the snorkel

  • 4 months later...

that looks great PLYNX

was thinking somtihng like that for my stagea using the snorkle, just to keep that stock look.

didnt have the brain power and patients for it tho, just did the standard box in the corner with air feed from below.

but for air feed, that snorkel was put there by nissan for a reason. so of course it must get air flow.

has anyone had trouble when washing the car. does the high pressure wash go up the air feed into the filter

Its pretty involved and needs a bit of reveres thinking. To make the bit that goes into the snorkel i got a piece of pvc plumbing tubing that fits into the snorkle. Cut two small pieces of the pvc and bolted them to a block of wood. Waxed it and fiberglassed around it. That gives you the oval that fit into the snorkel. Then you take the pvc tube and bolt it to the outside at each end of the oval and fiberglass the underside of the tube and that gives you the revere profile. So now youve got an oval with what looks like two half circles at either end. Then you take a sheet of cardboard and measure out the top shape, transfer it to a sheet of polypropylene( the same stuff that Maccas food trays are made out of ) fiberglass that with a thin sheet so its still flexable. Positon the oval on the lid on the car in the correct height and positon and lightly fiberglass it together. Once thats done build the ramp that goes towards the gard, cut out the underside of the lid so it will feed air from the snorked and the proceed to build up the fibergass to the shape of where the gard and radiator support is.

Thats the simplified version of how its done

Easy ! Well not really ! Just time consuming !

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...