Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I need some help with a translation. hopefully not too onerous. it's 90% katakana but a little bit of kanji too. The background is this is the parts list (well most of it) for the parts that went into the build for my R32 GTR. Now that the car is going to a mate of mine I would love to be able to give him my original invoice, but with the english translation of the part names. I am not too bad with katakana but I'm still very slow and it's quite labourious for me to read it all as even with a few kana refusing to come forth from my memory banks it can be hard to decipher a full word. and as far as kanji goes i'm pretty hopeless.

So, if anyone will take pity on this baka gaijin and help me I would appreciate it very much. :whistling:

Here they are:

post-3621-1215664404_thumb.jpg

post-3621-1215664416_thumb.jpg

post-3621-1215664427_thumb.jpg

post-3621-1215664439_thumb.jpg

post-3621-1215664454_thumb.jpg

Arigato gozaimasu. :)joshers.gif

Baron you cheap ass... i should be charging for this.

First sheet:

Nissan bare engine

turbo kit

engine removal / install

Trust camshafts

Trust strengthened timing belt

HKS strengthened valve springs

Trust intake / exhaust manifold

600cc Injectors

Tomei Exhaust manifold

Tomei Turbo outlet pipe

Trust suction kit ( intake? )

Trust induction kit

Z32 airflow meter including coupling

2nd sheet:

fanbelt

cooler belt

powersteering belt

turbine gasket kit

oil cooler studbolts

Oil cooler gasket kit

Start ( stud ? ) bolts C

clamp hoses

clamps

heater hose

Engine mounts

Engine mount brackets

seal

3rd sheet:

Seal

Seal

Oil return connector

Outlet oil return

Oil return gasket kit

Clamps ( for the oil return kit ? )

Master back hose

Vacuum hose

Unit Accelerator Work

Surge tank painting

Valve seals Intake and exhaust

Cylinder head removal and refitting

Valve grinding ( ? )

Head port and polish

4th Sheet :

Trust boost controller

Tomei fuel pump

NGK racing plugs

Nissan iridium plugs ( why would they go through 12 plugs..? )

APexi Power FC

Trust aluminium preset ( ? )

Trust silicone hose

Trust intake aluminium pipe set

Flywheel bolts

Oil level gauge guide

oil level gauge

Intake stud bolts

Exhaust stud bolts

Fuel hose

5th sheet: ( fark, this is the hardest for a kanji learner )

ECU current car

Mission member bush: Something to do with the gearbox cross member bushes

AF sensor attachment

Power steering pipe exchange including parts

Oil cooler removal replacement and cleaning

Intake manifold polish and blast

Throttle valves cleaned and blasted

Boost controller

Engine oil F2

Trans Oil

Front diff oil

Oil filter

LLC...?

Shot parts... ( ? )

There you go.

thanks mate, you're a legend.

the reason for 12 plugs is I think they use 6 for run in and low boost tune, then use the other 6 for high boost tuning. I think maybe different heat range.

the trust suction kit is all the intake piping (good guess).

thanks again, the new owner will be happy to get that list I'm sure. :)

oh, and just to help give you something back! LLC is coolant, short parts is probably best translated as misc. parts. just little bits and pieces that are not itemised, but add up.

I think Trust aluminium preset = Trust aluminium pulley set

valve grinding is where they cut the new 3 angle valve seat. it gives a better seal between the valve and the head. often the factory valve seats are not cut very well.

5th sheet:

ECU現車セッティング = ECU current car's settings.

Get what you pay for hey

yeah, totally.

Whoops, forgot to add the word "setting" considering i did this at 1 am and in the middle of a major presentation for the next day...

what are mates for eh? :D

expensive tune.....cheap translation. white man spend money in right place. car run nice, language run like vending machine full of 5 yen coin.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...