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yeah just disconnect the battery, pump the brakes a couple of times, reconnect the battery and adjust ure stereo and clock ;)

drive slowly around town and the 'Line will have a good fuel consumption (good for those times when ure broke)

or thrash it and it'll be more aggresive :)

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Yes it is safe to reset the ECU.

I think whether or not you'll notice a difference will just come down to when the ECU was last reset and what conditions it has adapted to. eg. When picking up a car straight from Japan, ppl usually notice a difference due to the varying road conditions ect.

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I resetted my ECU 2nd time a few weeks ago. It does make a difference if you put new mods on your car. This should remap it according to your new mods. Experience i had was from a standard turbo back zorst to a 3" turbo back. Without resetting my ECU on idle, it jumps from time to time. Now that i resetted it, it fixed itself and the idle now runs alot smoother.

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resetting the ecu, if you have 'no faults' will not make your car go faster or improve mileage.

The fuel and ignition map is exactly the same, before and after. The ecu DOES NOT remap. It will run the maps it always had.

I used to think it had some effect but after owning the car for almost 3 years I can assure you that it does nothing.

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It doesn’t change the maps but it dose change the computers range it will vary the map (within the ecu's factory range) resetting, erases the lean cruise data that the ecu learns which is dependant on driving style and it puts more advance into the motor because it hasn’t detected any knocks (pinging) yet. It also run's fuelling more aggressively.

A few hours of driving will pretty much set the ecu as its going to be and from that point its adjustments will only be slight. Hence resetting dose make a difference to power and economy. A reset should be preformed after any mod, fuel filter change, plugs, exhaust or whatever as the tolerances in which the car is running in have changed.

Regards

Damqik

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rev210: Gotta disagree there buddy.

For ages after fitting connecting my atmo bov, i had problems with stalling... I unplugged the ECU, and left it overnight.

Reconnected it in the morning, and now have never had a stalling issue since. It MUST have learned to not overfuel like that.

There's no other way to explain it...

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some ecus only have one map, others have two (high and low octane). the o2 sensor will determine if it is running too lean/rich when in closed loop. the knock sensor will determine if the engine is pinging and will pullback the timing where needed.

the maps themselves are not changed. but there is information stored in the 1K or so of RAM (early models) upto 32K RAM on later models. when reset, these will gradually relearn by large amounts gradually fine tuning. i think this might be stored in the ram and compared against the base map but this is only speculation until i do some more investigation into these. removing the battery overnight will dischange the capacitors which connect to the RAM chip and settings will be lost. car will run notiiceably shitty until it relearns the values again

im playing around with the following ecus... still learning about r33 ecu currently

http://imflame.ricetek.net/~darkhalf/ecu

matt

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AFAIK the ECU reset does change the ignition timing - advancing until the knock sensor cries 'enough' then retarding. It does this in progressivly smaller and smaller increments.

Here is a chart of my ECU being reset on a dyno (red line is the initial run straight after the reset, black line is a second or third run):

May2001dynobig.jpg

Cheers,

G

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Originally posted by Strich9ine

rev210: Gotta disagree there buddy.

For ages after fitting connecting my atmo bov, i had problems with stalling...  I unplugged the ECU, and left it overnight.

Reconnected it in the morning, and now have never had a stalling issue since. It MUST have learned to not overfuel like that.

There's no other way to explain it...

I can explain it as I explained it earlier.

Unless you have a 'problem'.

Sorry the dyno chart proves there is nothing happening with a reset, contrary to you thinking it was.

GraemeWi,

by the looks of the dyno the first 'red line' shows an ignition fault similar to dirty plugs, after a few good runs particularly with platinum plugs they will be 'cleaner'. There are 'bumps' present still in both charts indicating this is the reason for the difference. Each subsequent 'power' run will slightly improve the condition.

In 'Closed loop' operation , the oxygen sensor may be re-calibrated on a reset. But it's 'closed loop', meaning very light throttle only.

Like I said it does nothing.

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