Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

limiter is set @ 7900 but peak power is reached at around 6700 /6850 rpm and as Alistair says i dont wanna blow the poor old turbo's up just yet even though they are next on the hit list gt-rs's i think.

Alistair if i win the lotto tomorrow night i will invest a bit in the dyno for ya just so long as i get to use it when needed lol

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Been ages since I posted on SAU. A couple of things need clarification:

1. The limiter on Gary's car was set to 7900. The scaling on the graph is wrong. It is calculated by the dyno as a function of roller rpm, not measured. I should have printed the graph in road speed to save the confusion.

2. The boost is not dying off. I did that on purpose. It has been tapered to provide maximum midrange punch without top end over-speed. Even if the turbo's could sustain that boost level at high rpm, the power gain would be minimal, if not non-existant.

3. Pricing for Vi-pec refer to Alistair. Rec retail on the R32/33/34 board is $1,666.50 inc GST supply only. Installation and configuration is suggested to be around $350 and dyno tuning over and above. The ecu's come with start-up maps only.

what lumpy said :laugh:

i am extremely happy with the oomph once the boost hits

only down side is the mrs now thinks the car has enough power :P

she don't want me to go bigger turbo's

  • 9 months later...
In case anyone is interested there's a great thread in forced induction on a new Australian plug in ECU for rb20/25/26

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pl...ng-t218179.html

Briefly :

Direct plug and play replacement ecu board

full usb software tuning

switchable maps

uses all factory sensors

built in map sensor

boost control

launch control

antilag

built in factory base map for local fuel

australian built with full support and warranty

much much more

Cost will be around $1650 . Although more than a base powerfc , if you add up boost controller , map sensor or AFM upgrade and laptop software for PFC its pretty competitive - a 2nd hand rb25 power fc and decent electronic boost controller is probably more.

Were hoping to have the 1st units early next week and we will be carrying them in stock.

I am posting here as I think its pretty big news given the lack of power fc options for rb25/20. If any mods think that's not appropriate feel free to move to the sponsor sale section and my apologies.

Hey there just wondering where i can buy this ECU? Im from NSW

Cheers

Hey guys, just thought i say a big thanks to Alistair and Lumpy for the time and effort they put in this weekend with tuning my car. It goes great and is nice and drivable now. A job well done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...