Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Pressure Dropped Dramatically After Service

4drftn

By 4drftn,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

4drftn Experienced

4drftn

Posted
Posted

just serviced the r33's oil and filter like many times before (every 5000km), took it for a drive that night and found while i was cruising the highway in top gear (100km) the needle on the oil pressure gauge (factory) was sitting on 4, which is perfect oil pressure.

after driving for 1 -2 hours on the way back home along the highway i looked at the oil pressure gauge again only to discover it has dropped near halfway between 4 and 0.

next day (today) went for another cruise on the highway and discovered it is slightly lower than halfway between 4 and 0. thought maybe oil pressure hasnt built up so kept driving. come back along the long highway and discovered it has sligtly dropped lower...

*now i usually use repco oil filter and valvoline dura blend (synthetic blend) 15w-50 oil, but this time i used a valvoline oil filter and same type of oil but 10w-30...

could this be my oil pressure gauge playing up?

what could be causing it to lose pressure slowly, or gradually?

could it be the type of oil?

could it be the oil filter?

could it be the oil pump?

could it be the pump is blocked/stuffed?

i imagine if the problem is not resolved it can/will cause me some serious problems.

4drftn

Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Most likely the different viscosity of oil coupled with a dodgy oil pressure sender. I dont think id be too worried, if anything was seriously wrong you'd already know about it.

BTW: Keep in mind as the oil heats up more and more it gets thinner and thinner resulting in less oil pressure.

Edited by Godzilla32
4drftn Experienced

4drftn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i used 10w30 valvoline oil, when i usually use 15w-50, yes i have checked the oil level several times and found the level to be on the correct level on the dip stick, i have checked the oil filter and found to have no oil leaks around the seal.

im a bit worried about oil not getting to some parts of the motor and possibly causing it to starve.

Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
Posted

could be thinning of oil or just a faulty reading,,,,, either one doesnt cause probs...... if your loosing lots of power when car shouldnt be too hot then start worrying lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Butters
      R34 GTR Speedo Drive , sensor type ?

      By Butters · Posted

      Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...