Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I found it very interesting and helpful following NTYSKY's rebuild so I thought I would post up my own. I have been saving and collecting these parts for years and finally its all coming together!

Motor is being build by Paul at Red R Racing.

Chassis is being built by myself and Louie at Exclusive Colours (XCM) - R33 40th ann. widebody, half cage, seem welded, etc

I realise some parts are overkill but my thoughts are better do it now.

Std virgin bore 05U block, prefer this over the rb30 3ltr.

HE modified sump RB26

Greddy Oil pump

N1 Water pump

86.5mm CP pistons and rings

Eagle ESP H beam rods with ARP rod bolts

Greddy cams 256 duration inlet 9.1 lift, 264 duration exhaust 9.1 lift

Greddy adjustable cam gears

Tomei timing belt

Tomei Bronze Valve guides RB26DETT In and Ex

Greddy Valve springs

Tomei Solid Valve Lifters RB26DETT Skyline GT-R R32

JUN Titanium Valve Retainers RB26DETT 0 Offset Type I

TRUST Greddy Strengthened Crank Cap Bolt Stud Set RB26

TRUST Greddy Strengthened Cam Cap Bolt Stud Set RB26

Trust Greddy Strengthened Cylinder Head Bolts RB26

HKS Valve Stem Seals RB26DETT Skyline GT-R R32 R33 R34

Power Enterprise Kevlar V belt, A/c, and alternator belts

Tomei Gasket Combination Set with 1.2mm metal head gasket

Tomei Oil Gallery Orifice - oil restrictor

CNC machined dash 8 head oil Drain

6boost low mount manifolds to suit GT25/30's

SARD 700cc Fuel Injectors RB26DETT Skyline

SARD Standard Type Adjustable Fuel Regulator #6an

Bosch 044 x 2 external, 040 internal, 1.5 ltr surge tank all braided teflon lines

Greddy 10.5 fuel rail twin entry

ATI balancer (once it f*ing arrives!!)

ACL std rod and main bearings calico coated

Mines Cam baffles

Standard intake manifold and throttle setup.

I will be running a Haltech E11v2 (thanks Scott & Ben) with all the goodies. Low mount GT2530's with greddy dumps and front pipe going into a Kakimoto 3.5 exhaust. Apexi intake pipe kit, JJR hard piping kit and a 600x300x76 cooling pro intercooler.

Car will be used for show and strip (eventually), All I need to sort out is the Gearbox, clutch and shafts.

Pics will be avaliable as soon as Paul is ready.

Cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228029-another-rb26-rebuild-thread/
Share on other sites

Crank has been checked and prepped and its in Sydney with rods and pistons getting balanced. Block has been stripped, acid bathed, hot tanked and grouted. Just waiting a little longer for the grout to properly cure before we bore and hone it. Will probably do the bore once the gear gets back from the balancers. The head has been ported and the guides are in. The port job is what we call a stage 2 job and is a little more involved than a simple clean up (stage 1). Its the same port job i did on my old 2530 engine, this port job was so good Jim at CRD didn't want it touched and asked me to source another head for my current engine. Will post up some pics of the progress as soon as i take the camera over and snap some.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Crank has been checked and prepped and its in Sydney with rods and pistons getting balanced. Block has been stripped, acid bathed, hot tanked and grouted. Just waiting a little longer for the grout to properly cure before we bore and hone it. Will probably do the bore once the gear gets back from the balancers. The head has been ported and the guides are in. The port job is what we call a stage 2 job and is a little more involved than a simple clean up (stage 1). Its the same port job i did on my old 2530 engine, this port job was so good Jim at CRD didn't want it touched and asked me to source another head for my current engine. Will post up some pics of the progress as soon as i take the camera over and snap some.

Do you have bench flow test information in-relation to your stage 1, stage 2 so forth and so on head porting options?

what brand bearings were used in the build? nismo, king etc etc

to what extent ( level ) did you fill the block up with grout to give it extra rigidity? what would be sufficient time for it to cure?

do you torque plate hone the block as part of a standard build?

Is there an option to xray the block prior to build to ensure no fractures exist?

Is the porting in the head free-hand with a dremel or is it CNC ported?

looking for a decent engine builder.

R

Do you have bench flow test information in-relation to your stage 1, stage 2 so forth and so on head porting options?

what brand bearings were used in the build? nismo, king etc etc

to what extent ( level ) did you fill the block up with grout to give it extra rigidity? what would be sufficient time for it to cure?

do you torque plate hone the block as part of a standard build?

Is there an option to xray the block prior to build to ensure no fractures exist?

Is the porting in the head free-hand with a dremel or is it CNC ported?

looking for a decent engine builder.

R

Heads are flow bench tested by my machine shop and we port the heads to suit turbo, cam selection, capacity and RPM range.

We use ACL race series bearings in most builds.

The level of grouting is something id prefer to keep to myself. But we have found even in a street application water temps are unaffected and in some applications is actually lower.

All builds are torque plate honed, we use a milled block as our dummy head as its nice and rigid and gives an even spread of torque over block deck.

We generally only chemical crack test the blocks, and if getting a little large in the bore 87mm^ Sonic testing is done to check cylinder wall thickness. X-raying can be done but blocks have to be freighted to Sydney.

Porting is done free hand with a die grinder

Hope this info helps.

Paul

Edited by DiRTgarage
Heads are flow bench tested by my machine shop and we port the heads to suit turbo, cam selection, capacity and RPM range.

We use ACL race series bearings in most builds.

The level of grouting is something id prefer to keep to myself. But we have found even in a street application water temps are unaffected and in some applications is actually lower.

All builds are torque plate honed, we use a milled block as our dummy head as its nice and rigid and gives an even spread of torque over block deck.

We generally only chemical crack test the blocks, and if getting a little large in the bore 87mm^ Sonic testing is done to check cylinder wall thickness. X-raying can be done but blocks have to be freighted to Sydney.

Porting is done free hand with a die grinder

Hope this info helps.

Paul

Thankyou very much for that info paul.

One question relating to your porting stages. If it was 272 / 272 10.25 lift cams, 2.8L HKS kit and either using 2860-r's ( 5 ) or going with a single top mount TZ-04 with a rpm range insight of 8500+/-rpm range

how would you then determine the stage of porting?

is you stages of porting from your machine shop determined by the amount material taken to increase the I.D of each port? or do you dyno with parts then remove head then port then re dyno...?

or is it a case of x brand turbos have Y max HP rating these cams have a power curve with z properties and the target max safe rpm is B amount therefore remove X amount from each port to do this which increases flow Y amount.....

sorry just trying to understand the porting stages.

Also can you / do you offer plasma coating as an option / stage for your engine rebuilds? ( cylinder bores )

R

Thankyou very much for that info paul.

One question relating to your porting stages. If it was 272 / 272 10.25 lift cams, 2.8L HKS kit and either using 2860-r's ( 5 ) or going with a single top mount TZ-04 with a rpm range insight of 8500+/-rpm range

how would you then determine the stage of porting?

is you stages of porting from your machine shop determined by the amount material taken to increase the I.D of each port? or do you dyno with parts then remove head then port then re dyno...?

or is it a case of x brand turbos have Y max HP rating these cams have a power curve with z properties and the target max safe rpm is B amount therefore remove X amount from each port to do this which increases flow Y amount.....

sorry just trying to understand the porting stages.

Also can you / do you offer plasma coating as an option / stage for your engine rebuilds? ( cylinder bores )

R

Quick rundown of what each stage is

Stage one is mostly a clean up of whats already there, not a lot of material is removed and the port shape remains a very similar profile as a stock item. Suited to street applications with low mount turbo's with small lift and duration camshafts 7000-8000 rev limit

Stage two has the ports enlarged on both sides the port separators are modified slightly and the inlet is finished to aid in cylinder distribution and the exhaust is finished to minimise flow restriction. Suited to street cars that see the track often with larger flowing turbo's medium lift and duration camshafts 8000-9000 rev limit

Stage three has extensive enlargement and port shaping with full removal of the 'bump' in exhaust side and is perfectly matched to gaskets in port entry size. This is the extent the head on my race car has been ported as well as the head on other 'big' GTR's. Suited to full race applications and or dyno HP cars utilising very large turbocharger and high lift/duration camshafts 9000-10 000+ rev limit.

I have been intentionally a little vague about the exact modifications done as you can accept there is a lot of research done that im not willing to disclose on an open forum. Mostly this has been obtained through experience in real world conditions and not on a test bed/engine dyno (wish i had the time and money). Its done more along the lines of the xyzXY method you suggested.

Hope this info is of further assistance.

Edited by DiRTgarage

so ball park price for :

me send you engine , you build with my hardware, " stage 2 porting " prep block - line hone etc etc..... send back to me.

272 / 272 10.25 cams 2860-rs step 3 HKS stroker kit and associated uprated valve train hardware installed.....

cost ?

so ball park price for :

me send you engine , you build with my hardware, " stage 2 porting " prep block - line hone etc etc..... send back to me.

272 / 272 10.25 cams 2860-rs step 3 HKS stroker kit and associated uprated valve train hardware installed.....

cost ?

You have PM

sent...

forgot to answer the plasma coating question...

we only do it on our VQ38DETT rebuilds...lol

bloody good idea though...would save a lot of rebores...especially N1 blocks. Might look into that...cheers

Edited by DiRTgarage

No drama's Paul, the more info avaliable to the forum the better. :)

Dave, thanks mate should be awesome once its done.. just dont have much time to do the work!

Simon, I know mate.. chasing them up every morning lol, they will be sick of me by the end of it. lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
    • Murphy strikes again! Nothing at all would have gone wrong if you had the tool kit in the car! You'd have just found the clamp loose the next time you went to touch it...
    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
×
×
  • Create New...