Jump to content
SAU Community

Hicas System

PREISS

By PREISS,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Inline 6 Grand Master

Inline 6

Posted
Posted (edited)

depending on how much has been taken out i hear its a pain in the ass.

mine had the power steering lines to it pulled aswell and when i went to nisswreck they said id be looking at 1k in parts alone

if its for a defect engineers report for hicas lock bar was 1400 which is the option i took as recommened by the nice guy at nisswreck. fd up but its good to say to the cop pulling you over "yeah its all legit i got a e report in there if you wanna read it" the usual reply is free to go sir as they cant be fd reading it

Edited by Inline 6
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228274-hicas-system/#findComment-4016149
Share on other sites
PREISS Mentor

PREISS

Posted
  • Author
Posted

1G. wtf

thats only one prob i need to fix for regency. hopefully it aint been taken out fully.

I heard it weighs around 25kg all up so I thought it may be alil expensive.

what about standard boost control solenoid.

standard front castor rods.

This is f**ked. im moving house this thurs. now I have to tow the car there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228274-hicas-system/#findComment-4016164
Share on other sites
heslo Grand Master

heslo

Posted
Posted

If the car defected is the car in your profile, an R34, you should be ok as if I recall correctly the 34's and 33's share the same HICAS system, electic not hydraulic like the 32's. Should just be as simple as finding someone with a spare HICAS rack and swapping it in. Keep in mind you're probably gonna need a wheel alignment after all the stuff is switched back too!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228274-hicas-system/#findComment-4016185
Share on other sites
PREISS Mentor

PREISS

Posted
  • Author
Posted
If the car defected is the car in your profile, an R34, you should be ok as if I recall correctly the 34's and 33's share the same HICAS system, electic not hydraulic like the 32's. Should just be as simple as finding someone with a spare HICAS rack and swapping it in. Keep in mind you're probably gonna need a wheel alignment after all the stuff is switched back too!

Heslo. yeah I read that b4 too. wasnt sure if it were correct. sounds right tho..

wonder how long it takes to put back in tho

and yeah its out of rego, so deff a tow me thinks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228274-hicas-system/#findComment-4016196
Share on other sites
nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted

i was in the exact same situation, needed to go through regency and had a lock bar in, lucky i had a HICAS system sitting round the place, but im sure ud be able to find someone whos got one laying around, most people get rid of the things as soon as they can.

btw, what i did was lock the system up with washers, it meant i didnt have to reconnect the lines and get it functioning again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228274-hicas-system/#findComment-4016537
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...