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charged my car again took it off the charger in the morning, drove it in the evening, no problems, it had 12.7v on it.

This morning i start it...its F'ed again.

I measured again it was 12.00.

how do I tell if its the battery thats flat or whether the alternator is broken and its not charging my battery?

cheers,

Danny

Hey Danny, seems like you have a multi-meter at your disposal (12.0v ~ 12.7v) in your post, if so get engine running again somehow, load up charging circuit ~ headlights, stereo etc., & measure across battery terminals. Should see 13v ~ 14v constant. That is, not floating around all over the place. If you can measure that sort of voltage level I would reckon your charging cct is working as expected.

For battery failed, get multi-meter wired/clipped across batt terms with engine/ignition off, place meter where you can see it and crank motor. If battery volts drop way down below 12v then the CCA's have done a runner & yer battery needs help or replacement. Alternatively, take to autosparks, get it (battery) fully charged, maybe overnite, then load tested. Observe test results & make decision.

My 2 bob.

Cheers GW

ok thanks for the helps guys.

how many CCA's does eveyne recommend for our car to run.

I was thinking 350-400CCA is a good size.

cheers,

Danny

Hey Danny, if it was me I would get teh tape measure & pencil out. Biggest CCA you can fit in existing tray/space & still clear under bonnet apendages. Make sure pos/neg posts are rightaway round. And from the posts elsewhere in this thread, not Century brand. I have Bosch BNS60S 400CCA in Stagea, Bosch BNZ70SS 4W 700CCA in 4WD (this wont fit but) :blink:

Cheers GW

nope,

I recharged my old battery, I was hopin it would still work.

I risk repeating myself. You cannot charge a sealed battery yourself if it has been run completely flat. The car wont do it and niether will your home charger. The properties of the battery prevent it from taking a full charge unless you get it done by a shop with a proper charger.

CCA is cold cranking amps is for starting and has little to do with anything when the engine is running. Modern engines need alot less and they usually start first pop.... unlike old carbie V8s. you dont need alot of CCA, it doesnt help alot if you want to run your stereo with t heengine of for long periods either, try a marine battery in the boot.....

Edited by momo
If you run a battery dead flat it will not halve it's life. The only thing that will kill a battery is to store it on concrete.

What's with storing the battery on concrete killing it?

The charge went 'earthed' into the concrete then battery went flat? Is it?

somethnig to do with gravity. never understood it myself unitl I actually did it. leave it literally on the ground for 2-3 days and its dead flat.

Week 13 - got the VIN stamped by an authorised compliancer in Melbourne - went back to VicRoads, the staff and the manager had a look at it they're happy

HOWEVER (I'm getting used to this word)

ppl gone for lunch - they're understaffed, asked me to come back next week to do the rego payment and finish it off

:action-smiley-069:

Off to week 14 - with a glimpse of hope that it'll be over soon!

Spoken to Peter from SSVI about it, and Mark, one of the staff there did it, 15 min job.

the lady @ Vicroads happy with it, checked with Vicroads sunshine manager, who had a look at the VIN stamped on the RHS Strut, and he's happy with it too...

But alas everyone is @ lunch so no one can operate the computer to process the rego.. had to come back next week...

man... I hope it'll be 4th time lucky next week!

gravity is related to mass, not the substance itself..

must be something to do with earthing, how else could it be explained?

Waz is close but not quite right. I found an info on the net, lost the URL but here's the history behind why storing battery on concrete will kill it.

All batteries discharge slowly by nature - even on the shop shelf.

However the biggest killer is if the battery run dry, or the electrostatic contained within somehow gets discharged (by leaving a light on etc).

In the early years (long before most of you and I were born), batttery casing was made by metal box encased in an outer wood layer.

These type of early car batteries need to be stored on a piece of wooden joust if not being used. The reason is to prevent any moisture

from the floor to touch the outer wooden casing directly, causing the wooden casing to warp and crack, exposing the metal casing underneath

that may lead to rust on the metal case and leakage of the liquid inside - thus discharging the battery.

Then came along some improvement where the outer layer was made by rubbery like material or the early days of plastic. These doesn't have

any issues with moisture, however as they are somehow porous or the case's material density are not dense enough, electrostatic charges often escape down to the earth when batteries are placed on concrete.

The recent generation of batteries should have a polycarbonate casing which is stronger and won't let the electrons to escape even when put on concrete.

However some batteries that still gets discharged on concrete may not have the top quality casing, or the cold temp of the concrete during winter months actually makes the battery lost power. Just like camera's battery that lost power when used in cold weather area (need to rub on hands to warm up then it'll work again for a while). Something like that...

Week 14 - 4th time lucky...

This time it's a young bloke who's excited to hear that the new Skyline V35 is now here!

Car is officially on the road...

I guess it really takes someone who understand us when dealing with these cars... and he just accepts the faxed invoice from supplier without requiring my stat dec as proof of purchase... as apparently it was already enough, and I wouldn't have to go through all those troubles in the first 3 visits with the other ladies...!

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