Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Finially On The Road Again


Recommended Posts

Guest INASNT

After over a month of my car sitting at ice with problem after problem i finially get to drive it again, YAY!!!

The 550cc sard injectors, 044 pump, z32 afm, Power Fc, Greedy Profec B Spec 2, 9 Puck Cermaic clutch with 1200kg pressure plate, Lightened 4.5kg Chromemolly flywheel, Pineapples and Adj HKS Cam gear are all in and had a light tune with the Power Fc and got around 185rwkw@12psi .

The new custom made 3037S with 45mm external wastegate and custom high mount exhaust manifold are going on in the next few weeks. Same guy making my turbo as who made leewahs.

First with the exhaust cam gear set at -2.7 degrees, the profec b spec 2 setup properly with the pfc tune and lightened flywheel I am getting 12psi by 2000rpm!!!. Secondly the new clutch is farking heavy as and the friction point is mm off the the floor which means i have to rev to about 1500rpm before i can take off or else it stalls, so if i take off at 1500rpm, 500rpm later i have the full 12psi boost kick in. Not fun at all in the wet as I come off the clutch at the lights with the wheels already spinning before i even start to move. Should be more drivable when the new turbo setup goes on.

I recommend the lighhened flywheel to anyone as even tho i got the same peak rwkw as before with the ligtened flywheel and pfc tune it accelerates just so much faster and i got soooo much more midrange power now than before.

Will keep updated when new turbo setup finially goes on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22833-car-finially-on-the-road-again/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

nice..nice! that 3037 might just stretch those internals a bit too much though I have a feeling..

u should take it to Calder before they put the new turbs on...

Pity I have given up the mod-chase with mine anymore... my next project I have in mind however should give u a nice little run in those tropics :) I'll only need about 230-240rwkw to match you too..

Clutch will wear in and be nice .. at first they're a bitch... the last owner of mine changed it recently before he sold it. For the first couple of months was a pig to start, esp in the wet! it was either stall or spin stupidly..but it sorted itself out.

Guest INASNT

meggala

I been driving around automatic hire cars the last few month so any clutch at the moment would be hard i guess.

The 3037 i am getting will be

Comp

56 trim/57.0 Inducer / 76.2 Major. Hosing - 0.6 A/R

Turbine

Wheel 84 Trim - 60 major /55 Exducer

Housing 0.87 A/R

Robos

What power did your car make?

Gordo

I hope it looses a bit of its bite. And yes we should try go to Calder again but i am flying back to cairns on wednesday morning and returning friday morning. Fark i been over in cairns more in the last 3 months than been in melbourne, and the roads up ther west of cairns about 200km are just dead straight for about 5 km's in stages, its so tempting to just go full throttle.

As for the internals i have already scoped prices on weisco forged piston/rings and rods, mild ported head work, 1.6mm HKS head gasket and 260 duration intake/ext Tomei cams. They cost a bit but not 2 unreasonable.

Grim

U cant change the intake side with cam gears as then u will loose the nivac. I should be able to retard the timing to about -4 once the new turbo is setup and a bit more time is spent tuning the pfc. The exhaust cam gear, profec b and the pfc tune helped i recon the boost to come on so low plus its a series 2 so it uses the so called plastic comp wheel.

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by Grim

Denham....are you working your car up for the track or the drag strip? How many times have you had it on the track or run it at the strip?

Most prob drag strip, as not much track action goes on here in mel

Pic of the casing, u think there will be much lag?? :)

Guest Robo's
Originally posted by INASNT

meggala

Robos

What power did your car make?

the so called plastic comp wheel.

We got 178rwkw peak, didnt want anymore plus the stock cooler was heating up, last run was 172rwkw with a little less boost. This was during SAFC tuning.

Feels so much better

Hey Denham,

Seems like the guy working on your turbo does look like the same guy who did mine ;) Good work on it all mate. Your car almost became part of the furniture mate. Pity you didn't have a huge spoiler, I wanted somewhere to put my Maccas the other day :D

I got Nittos if you wanna buy some.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
×
×
  • Create New...