Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got a screamer by accident, I wanted plumback. It will be getting fixed thank god it is too farken loud, just cop bait:)

Luckily, I have already opened it up next to coppers going the other way (also got a bit sideways) and they didnt turn around, but its only a matter of time.

The only problem with having a larger turbo with open wastegate is that you hardly ever hear the BOV anymore. That's what happened to me. When the turbo spooled up it was quite a loud high pitched whistle, then the wastegate would open and that's all you heard. The exhaust also became a lot louder on idle. I don't find these noises annoying, but what is annoying is having an external fuel pump. They are so noisey, and a constant buzzing which gets annoying after a short while. In summer it seems to work harder and get louder. Much better intank.

I actually like the fsshhh of my BOV. At one stage the car was making so many noises: Exhaust, external fuel pump, BOV, turbo whistle and open wastegate. Just like an orchestra :) But now that my car has had its stock turbo put back on, it's a lot quieter and I can hear the BOV - which is a nice change :D

What BOVs do people have? I have the BLITZ one and I think it sounds sweet. I was going to go for the HKS one but I thought it was a bit too high pitched for me. Does anyone have the GReddy/TRUST one? How's that?

Because the manifold keep cracking :) I bought that second hand and if you've ever seen the walls of the manifold (HKS, stainless steel) it is extremely thin. Only 1-2mm!! It kept on cracking due to the weight of the wastegate (50mm) which is very heavy for such a thin manifold. So I would suggest anyone out there who is bolting an external wastegate to a manifold to make sure it can hold it. Maybe even get a mild steel manifold to save costs and make it thicker and more durable.

Also, I am hoping to sell the car soon and I want to keep the turbo and wastegate for my next car :D

Who says no-one knows what they sound like?!?!?

I bar-up chronically when i hear one :D

First decent one I heard was trying to race Merli in his White gts-t (big mistake) and i had my window down and nearly went deaf!

Then in Brett's weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee-mobile i couldn't decide whether i liked the wastegate opening or the rubber frying sounds better?!?!?

I can pick em a mile off now... BOV?!?!? Girl-toy.... :)

Adrian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...