Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey just a few questions relating to my series 1 33,, its pretty much stock, but my clutch is slippin quite bad n ive orded a heavy duty clutch kit for it, neways i went around to my mechanic this afternoon n he queried me about the flywheel n asked me wat the standard flywheel is, n if i had bought a new 1 or not. if im changing the clutch do i need a new flywheel ?? or are you able 2 just put a new clutch in with out doing anything 2 it?? or is the stock flywheel able 2 be machined if so how much am i looking at ? any help would be appreciated cheers..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228555-clutch-and-flywheel/
Share on other sites

You can buy the whole "Clutch Kit" which should come with a flywheel.

For example I had a HKS twin plate and I replaced it with the standard Nissan R32 GTR clutch, no way it will fit the HKS flywheel and had to order a Nissan R32 GTR flywheel.

All got different fittings, designs but if your new clutch does fit the flywheel, you most probley have to Machine the flywheel, if not replace.

Your mechanic should be able to check your whole gearbox system out and be able to tell you what needs replacing, what - not.

A "clutch kit" won't always come with a flywheel, I think in general they don't. I found my lightened flywheel the biggest waste of money I've spent on my car so far. And sold it to go back to stock. If you drive it in traffic, it's not as nice to drive. If you're driving on a track, it'll make shifts a little bit jerkier (not good). IMO I think it's only good for drag, can't see any other use. Suggest you stick with stock :P

depending on how bad its been slipping, and how long you've been driving it like that for, a light machine of your current stock flywheel should be fine. Machining a flywheel is bugger all (ie if they want more than $100 they are assholes) but regardless how bad the clutch was i would get it done since everything is out.

The better the mating faces of the clutch are, the better the new clutch will work.

yeh thnx 4 the replies i think when the mechanic does it n has it all out ill just get the stock flywheel machined n it shld be alryt .. pretty keen 2 drive it without the clutch slippn its been slippn 4 a while.

depending on how bad its been slipping, and how long you've been driving it like that for, a light machine of your current stock flywheel should be fine. Machining a flywheel is bugger all (ie if they want more than $100 they are assholes) but regardless how bad the clutch was i would get it done since everything is out.

The better the mating faces of the clutch are, the better the new clutch will work.

If they want more than 30 !!!!

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
×
×
  • Create New...