Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The first thing I did when I got my car was remove the Autometer boost gauge. It was on the steering column and blocking the view of my tacho redline, which I thought was a much more important gauge! It had the EBC and it was all set correctly, so I really didn't need the boost gauge. I used the factory gauge as a rough measure of the boost and it was fine.

But later as I started ramping up the boost towards 15psi and past the limit of the factory gauge, I decided to put the Autometer one back in. Only out of curiosity's sake really, to see at what rpm what boost is made. I find it WAY too difficult to look down at the EBC's digital readout, it's so far down (below the radio) that I would even say it's dangerous to keep an eye on while driving.

So I put the boost gauge back on the A-pillar. Probably defectable, but it won't be much skin off my nose if I have to remove it. I have to say though, with the chrome cup it looks quite neat from outside the car. But that's not the reason I put it back on.

All other additional gauges can wait. So I'd have to say that no aftermarket gauges are important to me. ALL of the factory ones except boost are important!

Defi look the most awesome.... but I would only put it on the a-pillar... but thats illegal :P

Tell me, has anyone been defected in melbourne cos they have gauges on their a-pillar?

Comeon, almost all Skylines I pass in Melbourne have SOMETHING stuck onto the a-pillar.

I don't get it. Taxis get to have whatever they want on their dash - their ID badge, stickers, bits of plastic, pen holders with pens in them, electronic/radio stuff, but we can't have a single gauge?

Maybe combined with the lack of compulsory seat belts for taxi drivers they will be instantly killed by all the crap on their dash in an accident and thus be less of a burden on our health system.

seriously but they only obscure ur vision by like a couple of cm's, gosh man y does the aus govt they take these things so seriously its not like someone is gonna die because a driver had a rev gauge that obscured his vision.....in the USA the 350Z came wif drilled aluminium pedals but ova here ive heard nuthing of that feature......full on ****ed

you can have as many guages as you want. if you know what it does and this effects your vehicale, i say go mad. i did.

craz0 i have the apexi turbo timer which have the factory air flow setting displayed. im yet to compare to a tuning sensor so i cant honestly tell you how close it is.

I'd have to agree with Merli.

I've never ever once looked down at my boost guage (center console below my mp3 player) while i've been driving in a spirited manner, even when at trackdays. I simply don't have the time or courage to take my eyes off the road for that long while 'on it'.

A water temp and an oil temp would do me perfectly for the center console. I can look at these -after- doing afew laps around a track and they dont move radically enough (like a boost gauge) so I can look at them when I -want- to not when I -need- to.

What are some good brand gauges? Where can these be bought from at a decent price and what are some websites with pics/specs/prices/etc ?

benm, often guages are more important for tuning than actually racing. all my defi guages have warnings so if any of the guages go over or under a certain limit it a really anoying buzzer sound and the wonderful red light shows up. i purchased all defi bf series guages. got two more to get. only problem i have found is i need three controler boxes to be able to connect all the guages i have. (two so far need one more for the last guage).

probally the cheapest guages i know of would be vdo, but if you go that way get the kenworth version (has to be purchaced from kenworth themself) from memory you can get the guage and sensor for about 70$. they dont have any warning or recall option. the advantage over the vdo guages (unless vdo has changed recently) is at night the numbers light up thought the backing insted of light simply being let pass from arround the edge to try light the frount panel inside, which isnt that effective.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was 99% sure the standard one is long enough to get there, you might just have to change the throttle orientation. If not, I remember someone having used an r31 cable instead, but that is probably harder to find than r33 by now...
    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...