Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

Will be doing my first 5000k service in 2 weeks time for my R34. Last service was done during compliance.

The car is pretty stock

- Blitz Nur Cat Back

- Apexi Pod

Do you know what i should ask for the 5k service or what's normally done in the first 5k service? Do you guys bring yr own parts?

So far my list:

Oil filter - Ryco Z145A

Spark plugs - NGK BKR6EIX (not sure to go 1.1mm or 0.8mm)

Oil - Motul 300W

What about brake fluid, clutch fluid, gear box oil, diff oil, power steering oil, coolant flush etc? Should i just leave these to the workshop ?

Many thks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229108-r34-first-service/
Share on other sites

the workshop "should" check your fluid levels and condition of fluids as part of the service. just make sure you ask them to check when you take the car there. they should also check condition of drive belts, brakes, suspension, oil leaks, and do a coolant system pressure test.

Guys,

Will be doing my first 5000k service in 2 weeks time for my R34. Last service was done during compliance.

The car is pretty stock

- Blitz Nur Cat Back

- Apexi Pod

Do you know what i should ask for the 5k service or what's normally done in the first 5k service? Do you guys bring yr own parts?

So far my list:

Oil filter - Ryco Z145A

Spark plugs - NGK BKR6EIX (not sure to go 1.1mm or 0.8mm)

Oil - Motul 300W

What about brake fluid, clutch fluid, gear box oil, diff oil, power steering oil, coolant flush etc? Should i just leave these to the workshop ?

Many thks

normally a 5k service is just oil and filter change and a safety inspection, making sure nothing is going to fall off etc. but your owners manual will tell you what needs to be done.

when i was taking my car to the zed specialist mechanic to get it serviced i didn't bother providing oil or filters, they had all that stuff there.

now that i'm doing most of the work at home i use:

genuine nissan oil filter $8 (the ryco Z145a is the same as the Nissan 15208-H8911AU, same as the 300zx oil filter)

motul 4100 10w40. I have used the motul 300V chrono, at $90 a bottle I figured that it would be better to use the Motul 4100 which is half the price and I just change the oil every 2500km rather than 5000km.

I have iridium spark plugs in there now so i don't have to change them as part of a normal service.

the other stuff you listed isn't really part of a 5000km service, it's usually scheduled in your owners manual so you can just go by that. but seeing as you haven't had the car for long it might be worth changing the fuel filter, and getting the brake fluid flushed. i usually change the coolant once a year, just before summer. if you haven't had that done then maybe get that done too.

So far my list:

Oil filter - Ryco Z145A

Many thks

It might not be a big issue to you, but im sure the Z145A is not the recommended oil filter for the 34. It is for the 33, and probably wont make a huge difference, but for mine I purchased one from the book and it is alot smaller. However, it is the same size as my Sard Mag Plus oil filter, once again model number to suit 34.

Obviously I know know for some reason the 34 seems to be recommended to take a very small looking oil filter. Just a heads up, your choice im sure it wont be a fatal one :thumbsup:

It might not be a big issue to you, but im sure the Z145A is not the recommended oil filter for the 34. It is for the 33, and probably wont make a huge difference, but for mine I purchased one from the book and it is alot smaller. However, it is the same size as my Sard Mag Plus oil filter, once again model number to suit 34.

Obviously I know know for some reason the 34 seems to be recommended to take a very small looking oil filter. Just a heads up, your choice im sure it wont be a fatal one :thumbsup:

I'll speak to workshop and see what they say about the oil filter thingy. Many thks : )

Yeh its weird. Ryco does 91-10/98 as the Z145A

Then 11/98 on as the Z442.

However their dates seem to not line up with when the 34 came out?

Either way, this Z442 was the same as my Sard mag plus in shape and size so I swung with it, even though my car is a June 98 I believe

Spark plugs - NGK BKR6EIX (not sure to go 1.1mm or 0.8mm)

I would stick with the 1.1mm gap as your car is fairly stock and ur running standard boost.

From what I have read, you should only use 0.8mm gap if you have increased your boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...