Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

Will be doing my first 5000k service in 2 weeks time for my R34. Last service was done during compliance.

The car is pretty stock

- Blitz Nur Cat Back

- Apexi Pod

Do you know what i should ask for the 5k service or what's normally done in the first 5k service? Do you guys bring yr own parts?

So far my list:

Oil filter - Ryco Z145A

Spark plugs - NGK BKR6EIX (not sure to go 1.1mm or 0.8mm)

Oil - Motul 300W

What about brake fluid, clutch fluid, gear box oil, diff oil, power steering oil, coolant flush etc? Should i just leave these to the workshop ?

Many thks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229108-r34-first-service/
Share on other sites

the workshop "should" check your fluid levels and condition of fluids as part of the service. just make sure you ask them to check when you take the car there. they should also check condition of drive belts, brakes, suspension, oil leaks, and do a coolant system pressure test.

Guys,

Will be doing my first 5000k service in 2 weeks time for my R34. Last service was done during compliance.

The car is pretty stock

- Blitz Nur Cat Back

- Apexi Pod

Do you know what i should ask for the 5k service or what's normally done in the first 5k service? Do you guys bring yr own parts?

So far my list:

Oil filter - Ryco Z145A

Spark plugs - NGK BKR6EIX (not sure to go 1.1mm or 0.8mm)

Oil - Motul 300W

What about brake fluid, clutch fluid, gear box oil, diff oil, power steering oil, coolant flush etc? Should i just leave these to the workshop ?

Many thks

normally a 5k service is just oil and filter change and a safety inspection, making sure nothing is going to fall off etc. but your owners manual will tell you what needs to be done.

when i was taking my car to the zed specialist mechanic to get it serviced i didn't bother providing oil or filters, they had all that stuff there.

now that i'm doing most of the work at home i use:

genuine nissan oil filter $8 (the ryco Z145a is the same as the Nissan 15208-H8911AU, same as the 300zx oil filter)

motul 4100 10w40. I have used the motul 300V chrono, at $90 a bottle I figured that it would be better to use the Motul 4100 which is half the price and I just change the oil every 2500km rather than 5000km.

I have iridium spark plugs in there now so i don't have to change them as part of a normal service.

the other stuff you listed isn't really part of a 5000km service, it's usually scheduled in your owners manual so you can just go by that. but seeing as you haven't had the car for long it might be worth changing the fuel filter, and getting the brake fluid flushed. i usually change the coolant once a year, just before summer. if you haven't had that done then maybe get that done too.

So far my list:

Oil filter - Ryco Z145A

Many thks

It might not be a big issue to you, but im sure the Z145A is not the recommended oil filter for the 34. It is for the 33, and probably wont make a huge difference, but for mine I purchased one from the book and it is alot smaller. However, it is the same size as my Sard Mag Plus oil filter, once again model number to suit 34.

Obviously I know know for some reason the 34 seems to be recommended to take a very small looking oil filter. Just a heads up, your choice im sure it wont be a fatal one :thumbsup:

It might not be a big issue to you, but im sure the Z145A is not the recommended oil filter for the 34. It is for the 33, and probably wont make a huge difference, but for mine I purchased one from the book and it is alot smaller. However, it is the same size as my Sard Mag Plus oil filter, once again model number to suit 34.

Obviously I know know for some reason the 34 seems to be recommended to take a very small looking oil filter. Just a heads up, your choice im sure it wont be a fatal one :thumbsup:

I'll speak to workshop and see what they say about the oil filter thingy. Many thks : )

Yeh its weird. Ryco does 91-10/98 as the Z145A

Then 11/98 on as the Z442.

However their dates seem to not line up with when the 34 came out?

Either way, this Z442 was the same as my Sard mag plus in shape and size so I swung with it, even though my car is a June 98 I believe

Spark plugs - NGK BKR6EIX (not sure to go 1.1mm or 0.8mm)

I would stick with the 1.1mm gap as your car is fairly stock and ur running standard boost.

From what I have read, you should only use 0.8mm gap if you have increased your boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...