Jump to content
SAU Community

Cooler Pipe Poped Off And Now The Car Is Missing Bad

ashr32

By ashr32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

ashr32 Rising Star

ashr32

Posted
Posted

Ok so this is the problem.

Took off in first, snapped second and the car cut out.

Started and stalled the car for 200 metres to get it off the road. (not fun on a main road at night in the wet)

Check the engine and found the cooler pipe from the throttle body which goes to the hole under the battery had pooped off. (greddy type m intercooler)

cool so put it back on started the car and now its missing but not really stalling

it misses at idle and under load

I thought I could have fouled the plugs so I gave it I kick in the arse to clear it out

no good still missing

took off AFM while engine was running, car cuts out,

started the car with AFM off, high idle missing is a little better but still there

drive the car home, missing at all RPM barely drivable

Mods on the car thats relivant

r33 turbo

greddy intercooler

3 inch zurst

12psi

greddy profec b spec 2

fuel pressure gauge

air fuel gauge

volts gauge

Here is some extra data

1. I always get popping from the intake manifold when I cold start and backfire between gears so just im guessing the backfire could have caused back pressure and the cooler pipe to pop. This is probably a timing/tune related issue but something to add anyway.

2. the last thing i did to the car was reinstall the fuel pressure gauge sender

So what could have caused the problem?

Is the missing the result of the problem or the cause?

Ideas so far

1.plugs are still fouled (clean, test) but wouldn't have caused the pipe to pop

3.coils? Pull 1 at a time to test for change

basically my mate and i drive 35kms to work together everyday and he wroteoff his 180sx to weeks ago so we are carless unless i can find a solution

Please help

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

Your pipes popped off due to bad clamp or weak wrist while tightening clamp.

your car runs like crap now due to the 200m of driving worth of fuel that was dumped on the plugs with no air to mix with.

resolution.

1.) use better clamps or use wanking hand to tighten clamps properly (this hand will be stronger).

2.) buy 6 new NGK copper plugs with 0.8mm gap and put them in (wanking hand tightness not required for putting in plugs)

as for your other little problems.

you have a car with an ecu that was tuned SAFELY for 10 psi through a turbo of size X

you now have 12 psi crammed in to it through a turbo that flows 15% more at same boost levels as stock turbo.

I'm sure a remap/chip would resolve the little misfires up top etc.

speak to Toshi or CEF11E from these forums for remap options.

ashr32 Rising Star

ashr32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for being so candid hahaha im still laughing.

i got a new set of NGK Coppers BCPR6ES to go in tonight (fingers crossed)

i did give it a good pumping for a couple of minutes afterwards but maybe there stuffed

at $3 a plug i dont care. hehe

as for a remap ive had a pfc and hand controller sitting in my shed for 6 months now.

im trying the get the money together for a major service, tune and to put my hks cam gears in.

im nearly there so hopefully your right.

ill test tonight a post results.

thanks guys.

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

plugs will fix it. reason being is that because the cooler pipe popps off no air goes to the engine and the injector is letting in heaps of fuel with fowles the plugs.

mark_sudakov Community Regular

mark_sudakov

Posted
Posted
Mods on the car thats relivant

r33 turbo

greddy intercooler

3 inch zurst

12psi

greddy profec b spec 2

fuel pressure gauge

air fuel gauge

volts gauge

So you dont have a tune for the r33 turbo?

ashr32 Rising Star

ashr32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
So you dont have a tune for the r33 turbo?

thanks guys for your input.

6 dead spark plugs later and the car is flying again. i had the some ngk plugs in it before but they were 7's. the 6's are smooth as.

very happy

ashr32 Rising Star

ashr32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
thanks guys for your input.

6 dead spark plugs later and the car is flying again. i had the some ngk plugs in it before but they were 7's. the 6's are smooth as.

very happy

yeah still need cash for PFC tune but i still made 180kw atw on the dyno so still a healthy figure.

AdMan Collaborator

AdMan

Posted
Posted

My cars intercooler piping popped off a while back, I put it back on and things went alright. It came off again, and again.. til I bracketed the bastard from coming off anymore.

I drove the car to a crash repair shop to get some work done and when I went to drive it out, the car wouldnt start. Theres fuel going to it, but just no bang! :P

Could this be the same problem? And is it the same thing that I need to have a look at? :)

Sorry to ask in this thread but its basically the same concept.

Cheers...

ashr32 Rising Star

ashr32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
My cars intercooler piping popped off a while back, I put it back on and things went alright. It came off again, and again.. til I bracketed the bastard from coming off anymore.

I drove the car to a crash repair shop to get some work done and when I went to drive it out, the car wouldnt start. Theres fuel going to it, but just no bang! :D

Could this be the same problem? And is it the same thing that I need to have a look at? :woot:

Sorry to ask in this thread but its basically the same concept.

Cheers...

id def have a look at it but what work was done at the shop, was any pipes taken off???? does your car normally have cold start issues??

meet07 Enthusiast

meet07

Posted
Posted (edited)

If your using what we call here in the states.....WORM CLAMPS......... then you may want to run a bead around the ends of each pipe so the clamps have something to bit.

Or put 2 clamps on the pipe/coupling thats popping off

When I said bead I ment weld bead...

But worm clamps are :D

Edited by meet07

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Nismo GT Pro LSD configurations

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
    • PranK
      Hello sau 👋

      By PranK · Posted

      Welcome Adam. Car looks great!
    • Kinkstaah
      Nismo GT Pro LSD configurations

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      "With a 1.5-WAY, the LSD is effective only during acceleration."
    • TurboTapin
      Nismo GT Pro LSD configurations

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Well it wasn't as easy as I thought.... and it also wasn't in my original manual which I did end up finding. They discuss the process in the Nismo catalogue though and it requires slight machining. Page 145.  NISMO PARTS CATALOGUE 2020
    • TurboTapin
      Why am I hitting a power wall with my stroked RB25?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I'm an idiot, my intercooler is rated for 1000hp. I had clicked on the wrong product. Knowing the delta P would be nice, but I'm doubtful I'll do it. Now as for an EMAP, that would be great and I'll get around to it eventually but from my findings in my last post, I'm considering a turbo swap now. 
×
×
  • Create New...