Jump to content
SAU Community

Do All Power Windows Stop Working Or What?

StOjA32

By StOjA32,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

StOjA32 Enthusiast

StOjA32

Posted
Posted

Hey guys .. is it just fact that all power windows will sotp working after a while .. my R32 GTST, the windows were perfect now the left side one only works when controlled by the drivers side switch .. drivers side window needs to be played with to get it working...

My real question is ... is it just a simple problem where the connection on the swtch is just old causing them not to work. is it easy to fix? can it be done on your own ?

could anyone help?

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

first thing is check the switches are plugged in properly. with the 32 the major problem with windows not working properly is the Power Window Relay, which is located under the driverside doorcard to the rear of the door. a small black rectanglular box. they are easy to swap over and only cost around $20-$30 from the wreakers for a working one.

partyboy73 Rising Star

partyboy73

Posted
Posted

If the drivers window is the problem then its an easy soldering job on the relay box, most likely, and there is a thread on it in the DIY section. With the other windows only working from the master control, its just the contacts in the individual switches and is as easy as pulling them out, then carefully apart, and just clean up the contacts with some fine sandpaper. Mine were dirty as and now no probs, just be careful not to lose any of the little parts and take note of how it was together for reassembly. :thumbsup:

G3TFKD Proficient

G3TFKD

Posted
Posted

how about if the drivers side power windows works when it goes up, but doesn't always work to go down. would that be the relay or would that be the actual switch?

play around for a little bit and then the window goes down

p.s sorry for hi-jacking the thread

partyboy73 Rising Star

partyboy73

Posted
Posted
how about if the drivers side power windows works when it goes up, but doesn't always work to go down. would that be the relay or would that be the actual switch?

play around for a little bit and then the window goes down

p.s sorry for hi-jacking the thread

Thats what one of my rear switches was doing (4 door) so if its always going up, and is playin up going down, then its the contacts in the switch itself... only problem there is the master switch on the drivers side looks to be stuck together pretty good (was when I looked at it, then gave up. Turned out to be the relay anyway) Try carefully getting into the master switch and clean the contacts. I'm confident this will cure your problem.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • GTSBoy
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • GTSBoy
      Why am I hitting a power wall with my stroked RB25?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...