Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

collecting parts for 26/30 conversion but need a couple of answers....

1) rb30 or rb26 head gasket?

2) looking for maximum torque and 7000rpm limit,any advantage to swapping std cams out for regrinds...if so what specs?

3) anyone used a copper head gasket,any dis/advantages?

4) worth 'O' ringing the block?

5) is the std nissan head gasket better than the cometic?

6) will the std RB30 balancer be ok under 7000rpm?

8) suggested single turbo for low end torque?

cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229716-couple-of-rb2630-questions/
Share on other sites

well i've been way off on alot things lately so make sure you get a second opinion, but i'll give you a start where i can

1. cant remember, someone told me you can use either, but i get a feeling you need the twin cam one - i know that wasnt much help (told you you'd need a second opinion)

2. for a street car, use standard cams. i think Ben (racepace) put standard cams back in his race car after having larger ones in there, thats saying something?

3. copper gaskets, not much first hand experience, but in theory - good because they conduct heat well, meaning less chance of heatspots forming on the ring of the gasket, bad because they can have issues with seepage

4. probly not for lower power levels, and i *think* thats mainly for copper gaskets???? someone confirm that for me

5. cometic is better (MLS gaskets)

6. is it in good condition? see how much you can get a new one for, its cheap insurance really

7. you cant count lol

8. GT35R

i had tought about mentioning GT30, i think cubes runs one? but its mixes results, some say it comes on too hard too early and just results in wheel spin, obviously it will yeild more low down torque, but its too much?

edit - just read a post of cubes saying its very linear.... and doesnt reult in wheel spin, GT30 might be an option

Edited by VB-
Im building a 30/25 neo at the moment, will be running .86 gt3076, i think it will be the ultimate street setup. No lag with over 300rwkw within easy reach

you don't reckon it will be like a like switch??

when are you expecting boost to start and be all in by rev wise?

300rwkw at what psi?

you don't reckon it will be like a like switch??

when are you expecting boost to start and be all in by rev wise?

300rwkw at what psi?

The opposite of a light switch, it should be a torque monster, making meaningful boost and torque from 2500. Full boost of about 16 psi should be in by below 3500.

we had a .82 gt30 on our old rb30det...think we pushed 365-370rwkws out of it with water/meth injection on shell 100 pulp. 8k redline and it was pulling all the way...didnt die out at all from memory. 256 8.5mm tomei poncams and greddy inlet, is what helped it maintain that power rise to redline...atleast thats what i think...maybe the water/meth injection too :wave:

collecting parts for 26/30 conversion but need a couple of answers....

1) rb30 or rb26 head gasket?

2) looking for maximum torque and 7000rpm limit,any advantage to swapping std cams out for regrinds...if so what specs?

3) anyone used a copper head gasket,any dis/advantages?

4) worth 'O' ringing the block?

5) is the std nissan head gasket better than the cometic?

6) will the std RB30 balancer be ok under 7000rpm?

8) suggested single turbo for low end torque?

cheers guys

1. Either way, more options available 26 way but.

2. Standard cams, go pon cams if anything.

3. Yes I have used them, prefer mls gaskets but less dicking around.

4. Only if your going copper gasket

5. No

6. Yes, ati to be safe but.

7. 35r as previously mentioned.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...