Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

any engine will knock, whether it is PFC or stock ECU........ i would worry too much about it, a friend's R34 did that as well and he never mention anything about being worried about it, but if in doubt get it checked out by your mechanic/dyno dude :rolleyes:

any engine will knock, whether it is PFC or stock ECU........ i would worry too much about it, a friend's R34 did that as well and he never mention anything about being worried about it, but if in doubt get it checked out by your mechanic/dyno dude :)

lol no, only a PFC will trigger the CEL for engine knock, the stock ECU will not display the CEL if there is any knock detected....would be great if it did :rolleyes:

If it was a brief flash 9/10 it's the O2 sensor, if it goes on an remains on, most likely coil packs..run the diagnostic to be sure.

Paper clips at the ready!!!!!

As the document says, turns the ignition to "on" short the two terminals indicated on the consult plug (clipped covertly on the underside of the dash near where your right knee lives), count the flashes, look up the code

diagnostic.doc

Thanks Dan lol

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi all just to clarify... This happened to me today. The engine light turned on and stayed on after 10 minutes of driving. I didn't feel any change in the engine etc. car felt as usual no hesitation, shakes or missfires.

I pulled over waited a few seconds and restarted - engine light was off and never came back on.

I guess i'll have to drive the car more and observe if the issue comes back.

My car is an r34 non-turbo auto btw.

What is the consensus on this? Bung sensor or coilpacks about to give out or ecu glitch (if that even happens)???

Hi all just to clarify... This happened to me today. The engine light turned on and stayed on after 10 minutes of driving. I didn't feel any change in the engine etc. car felt as usual no hesitation, shakes or missfires.

I pulled over waited a few seconds and restarted - engine light was off and never came back on.

I guess i'll have to drive the car more and observe if the issue comes back.

My car is an r34 non-turbo auto btw.

What is the consensus on this? Bung sensor or coilpacks about to give out or ecu glitch (if that even happens)???

Definately coil packs, fitted Splitfires and iridium plugs to mine today. My engine light had been on for a week and a half but like yours had not yet shown any signs of hesitation or missfiring yet. Just ran the engine, no engine light on and appears to be running much smoother and cleaner than before.

Splitfire coilpacks, part# SF-DIS-008, Brought them from CRD in NSW for $510 delivered, awsome service as they arrived a day and a half after payment.

NGK Iridium spark plugs BKR5EIX-11 $90

Also have NA R34 Good luck, Nath.

post-26384-1220085513_thumb.jpg

this happened to me, engine light came on and it dropped a cylinder, car would shake quite a bit, so i unplugged the coilpack plug, replug back in and the shaking went away.

pin pointed it down to the one SOB coilpack so i replaced that.

hopefully its fixed now as i only did it 2 days ago but so far so good, the light would come on intermittently, sometimes it would last a week without issues or maybe a day... but then in future if more packs let go, its time for splitfires.

  • 2 weeks later...

My engine light came and and I got a service they hooked up the Nissan computer but they couldn't find the problem. I rang Power Road car sales where i bought my R34 Gt from and they identified the problem by just me explaining it over the phone.

I just got a new coil pack installed by them today, costing 240, (130 for the coil pack form Nissan) They also claim to have a machine that tells them which coil pack is playing up.The car runs smooth now, but my engine light is still on. I was told that the computer needs resetting, but I would have thought that the light would switch its self off once the problem is solved.

Does any one know how to reset computer or do i need to take the car to a specialist?

^ dc the battery, step on brake a few times to compeltely drain the power.. wait a few mins, connect battery back up & thats it.

but after u change the coilpack, u turn it off and then turn it back on and the engine light should go away.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
    • Why are you so adamant on going M12? Why not follow Brad (GTSBoy) suggestion. You're talking moving from a 1/8" size, to a 1/2" effectively. 4 times bigger. Why skip the commonly available sizes in between? The bigger you go, the more likely you are to strip the threads out at a later date, as guaranteed, someone will put a huge spanner on the M12 and really tighten it up, and you're only in thin wall, so not a lot of threads to engage!
    • Hi. Yeah thanks. Car is already at tuners and it staying there to resolve "many" issues they do not like. So it is in a good hands. Getting a good tune on that Nistune ECU too so the car would be good. Just needs a little tune up and love.
    • Probably gonna remove manifold and turbo. I’m not sure if I can get M12 x 1.5 air tight. Could use high temp Loctite 246 or something similar, but I don’t know. Maybe it’s just best to remove everything again and weld an 1/8NPT on there instead.
    • Yeah, saw the ratios, not impressed. Would like the punch I have in the first gears now. With those ratios it won't be the same.  Also want the h pattern gearing, or at least a quiet gear set that don't need to come apart for service each year. Looks like the only "reasonable" way Is a 8hp70 transmission, but where is the fun in that🤷‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...