Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ideally chasing a wingless R34 bootlid (ie. from an N/A R34 so there was never a wing there in the first place.) I'd prefer pearl white but will take other colours if the price is right. It'll be resprayed so the paint doesn't have to be perfect. I'm chasing a boot that has no spoiler holes, has never had spoiler holes and no creases or dents. I am happy to swap my current bootlid plus cash your way if you're interested.

I'm in Croydon, VIC, but can travel around VIC to collect.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230176-wtb-r34-sedan-bootlid/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

hey mate I have been looking EVERYWHERE for one of these for 2 years. I have now found a supplier who does them in China, and he does them in ultra lightweight REAL CARBON FIBRE. I am getting some pricing on them, but it is looking good - probably under $600 shipped. I am also getting some info together on R34GTT carbon fibre bonnets, and might be bringing in some oem style, and vented Top Secret style ones - prices below Aus local prices too (around $700)! These are real carbon fibre - not fibreglass covered in a thin film of carbon on top.

PM me about a boot, and I will try to remember to let you know when I bring some in, and how much they will cost. Face it - carbon fibre looks AWESOME on a white car - you could do a bonnet and boot, save nearly 50kg in weight, and make your car look awesome. Or you can just paint the carbon fibre white.

Fyi the last boot I saw for sale in Aus was on Ebay, and he wanted more than $300, AND it was damaged on one corner which would have needed a fair bit or work to repair. Also, I was quoted $400 to properly weld up the boot holes from the spoiler. If I can get the carbon ones landed here for around $600 they will be unbelievable value.

Hi Mate,

I really appreciate the reply. However I’m not in a hurry and can hang out for a reasonably priced original bootlid to come up. Either that or I’ll repair the one the one that I have.

  • 2 weeks later...
Hi Mate,

I really appreciate the reply. However I'm not in a hurry and can hang out for a reasonably priced original bootlid to come up. Either that or I'll repair the one the one that I have.

Are you after the boot lip spoiler? Or the actual lid? Im confused? LOL check www.importmonster.com.au

Are you after the boot lip spoiler? Or the actual lid? Im confused? LOL check www.importmonster.com.au

Nope, actual lid :thumbsup:

PM replied Steve.

Edited by llama_au

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...