Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering as the topic suggests about a brake upragde. My mechanis recomends a GTR brake upgrade but recently talking to another skyline owner i was told that the increased offset of the GTR brakes wouldnt alow the rims to fit under my standard GTS guards?? if this is true are there ne ways around it? or could is there a cheaper alternative and some how keep my breaks but by 5 stud rotors to give me a larger range of available rims?? im quite happy with my breaking performance but fade becomes a large issue ne tips or ways of making the breaks work better with out spending aa huge amount of cash.

Cheers

John

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23018-brake-upgrade/
Share on other sites

you will notice a big improvement with good pads (racebrakes rb74's) slotted rotors and good fluid.

You could just get GTST hubs rotors and callipers all round I believe. hubs and callipers 2nd hand, get new slotted rotors. Use the R33 GTST master cylinder too.

I havent been in the car with you, so I dont know how you go with the brakes. For most people, rotors/fluid/pads will be enough. Cheaper too!

the hub change gives you 5 stud, and bigger brakes are better.

Both are good options.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23018-brake-upgrade/#findComment-496962
Share on other sites

Just for an idea on pricing (i've spent $2,000 on my brake system this year alone).

From www.racebrakes.com.au (with member discount)

* RB74 front pads = $175

* COMP2 rear pads = $125

* 4x Goodridge Braided front lines = $360

* 2x GTR G-Kit T-Piece = $30

* Front 4 Piston Caliper kit = $110

* Rear 2 Piston Caliper kit = $77

* Front and Rear Caliper Overhaul = $200

* 2x Caltex GP600 DOT5 Fluid = $58

* Install, bed in front and rear pads = $55

* Paint Caliper and Rotors = $65

I gotta take my car back tomorrow coz things still aren't right (possibly fault in my Master Cylinder) but after a recent trackday experience i've learnt that while its fun to go fast if u can't stop ur in big shit.

My advice if you are wanting to increase your braking performance on a budget:

* RB75 front pads

* COMP2 rear pads

* Caltex GP600 DOT5 fluid

Bendix Ultimates = ~ 90c - 380c

RB74 = 0c - 580c

You should notice a siginificant difference over the standard components and you won't get fade on normal street driving.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23018-brake-upgrade/#findComment-499032
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...