Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello guys, i'm going to get my timing belt replaced soon. Rang up Nissan and it costs $102 for the belt. I just wanted to confirm the part no. before i go and buy it.

The part no i have is 13028-20P25, I have a na R33 93mdl. Also figured i'd get the ac belt and Alt/fan belt changed too.

AC Belt 11720-77A00

Alt/fan belt 11720-42L02

Has anyone changed these recently and can confirm them?

Also, is it true that the RB30 water pump will fit straight in?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23044-timing-belt/
Share on other sites

most places sell the timing belt for 90-120 bucks.

you can pick up a fancy trust/greddy belt for 300 odd but i dont think thats needed.

time taken to do the change is 3-4hours pending on experience of person.

other belts worth changing at the same time, theres two i think, they cost about 30bucks together.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23044-timing-belt/#findComment-494097
Share on other sites

ok guys i have bought the timing belt for $102 from nissan.

the alternator belt is about 32 and the power steering about 35 and the ac about 17.

im going cheap and getting the aftermarket ones for those.

ac belt - 4PK910

ALT - 4PK850

PWR ST - 3PK845

repco and stuff seem to only have the one 5mm longer eg 4PK915 etc. not sure if that will fit. but they can order it in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23044-timing-belt/#findComment-495197
Share on other sites

Originally posted by _turtle_

The part no i have is 13028-20P25, I have a na R33 93mdl.  

ive got my timing belt here, it came off a 94' GTS R33.

Nissan 13028 20P10 141T

i dont think the timing belt would be 40bucks, that seems too cheap. the cheapest i found was 80 odd bucks from justjap.

there is 142, (plus or minus 1, lost count) bumps or ridges on the timing belt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23044-timing-belt/#findComment-495202
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...