Jump to content
SAU Community

Gts-t P/s Pump Swap To Gts-4

GTS4dood

By GTS4dood,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTS4dood Collaborator

GTS4dood

Posted
Posted

Morning all,

I've been living months and months with about 1 minute of driving with power steering before it cuts out. When the car is just switched on it works fine but then just dies. I was planning on just getting a new power steering pump. I'm also thinking of getting rid of the Hicas. GTS-4's use a dual pump for Power steering and the hicas...so if I put the hicas lock bar in, remove all the hydraulic lines and solenoids, all the way to the power steering pump....would i be able to replace my dual pump with a normal, single GTS-t pump????

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230776-gts-t-ps-pump-swap-to-gts-4/
Share on other sites
heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted

Quick question, how do you know it is the pump? Regularly failing like that after start it sounds like the failsafe condition where the steering goes hard when there is a fault with the control system.

Have you completed a hicas diagnostic? What did it show? (If you didn't know the hicas and power steering control systems are combinedin the one controller, a problem in either system will cause this symptom).

GTS4dood Collaborator

GTS4dood

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I havent ran a diagnostic, i just dropped it off at the local import mechanic months ago and he said he couldnt find the problem and to buy a new pump. I'll give the diagnostic a go and see what i come up with.

Cheers!

B0oStEr Mentor

B0oStEr

Posted
Posted
Morning all,

I've been living months and months with about 1 minute of driving with power steering before it cuts out. When the car is just switched on it works fine but then just dies. I was planning on just getting a new power steering pump. I'm also thinking of getting rid of the Hicas. GTS-4's use a dual pump for Power steering and the hicas...so if I put the hicas lock bar in, remove all the hydraulic lines and solenoids, all the way to the power steering pump....would i be able to replace my dual pump with a normal, single GTS-t pump????

Cheers!

The gtst also uses the twin pump.

You'd want a gts pump and you will also need the bracket and lines.

They use a 3 rib pulley instead of a 4 rib but you probably wouldn't need to change the crank pulley so it might not be an issue.

I doubt it's your pump, more like solenoid control.

Could be speed sensor or other input to hicas computer.

grim32 Community Regular

grim32

Posted
Posted

I wouldnt think it would be the pump either, when removing my hicas with a lock bar i used the standard power steering pump. You have to take the back cover off it and remove the vane/fan out of it so it cant pump fluid. Put the cover back on and block the 2 outlets with bungs, i just used the power steer fittings cut short and welded so they wouldnt leak.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Piggaz
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By Piggaz · Posted

      You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...