Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I found a few other threads but they werent very thourough, i just want to compile a complete list of what should be done, so far i can think of;

Water pump

timing belt

tension idler

spark plugs

fluid flush

oils

do other things generally get done or do you need them such as;

fuel filter

timing

seals

or are these the type of things you only fix when they're broken ?

help or input is much appreciated :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230801-100000km-service-to-do/
Share on other sites

Im also coming upto 100k and was about to start looking around for a list of things so this will be a big help for me :blink:

So far ive got all of the fluids, coolant, spark plugs, oil filter, still trying to find the part no for a fuel filter.

Would it be a good time to do break fluid? or is it not really needed

Yeah im up for the 100k service very soon also..

Will be doing everything listed in this thread and then some, since im prepping my car for track (turbs, brakes & weight) I will changing most of the gasket's, new pads + lines and brake fluid, cleaning out cooler.

Basically doing everything i possibly can.

^^^ On top of these items, I'd at least check the fuel filter & clean it out. It's situated in the fuel tank via a stalk on my car. Just Jap and others have a few quite often.

For race tracks, it's a good idea to check minimum width and condition of brake rotors. When at a minimum and with heavy braking, they can heat up all of a sudden (which is a bit less of a problem when it's for road use only). Brake fluids are worth changing especially if the car is left standing for periods without use, since they can absorb moisture from the air at low temps.

Check bushes, drive shaft boots too.

Cheers, T

100,000 K's, it's one of the big ones.

So change,

Oil

Oil filter

Air filter / Clean pods

Fuel filter

Battery (If you think is getting old)

Radiator Coolent Flush

Brake pads / Machine Disks (If worn)

Timing Belts / Fan Belts

Spark Plugs

Check all your tyres (Change if worn)

Gear Box oil (If had not been done)

Check under the car / drivetrain

And do the genaral service look over.

Thats mostly what I can think of.

I'm also coming up to my 100,000kms service.

Have been told timing belt, tensioner, tensioner bearing, water pump, coolant flush and at another place some other things too.

Any mechanics out there who feel like throwing a quote with parts and labour included would be absolute legends.

God like in fact :D

Changing the timing belt would probley cost $300 $400 tops. Give or take (Approx)

If you do it yourself, make sure you put the belt on correctly and must be aligned perfect. Other wise you can alter the timing and your car will be out of wack = loss of power and car runs shit.

I was not there to see him change it, otherwise I could tell you what to do.

No need to change your cam gears. Only do that it you want to race the car and/or adjust the angles of the cams open and closing.

for those of you who are saying should the fuel filter be changed at the 100k service.... well i hope you change it atleast every 20k.

some other things to consider...

Engine oil

Oil filter

Diff oil

G/box oil

Wheel bearings

Radiator coolant

Water pump

Thermostat

Air filter

Timing belt

Spark plugs

Brake fluid

Clutch fluid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...