Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been doing some searching and haven't found any answers. If this has been covered many times before please direct me there and delete this post.

I was done for the Exhaust, Atmo BOV, and FMIC.

I've changed the BOV back to standard, Got and original SMIC to install, not just need to do the exhaust.

To get under the required 90db what would i need to do? (3" Mandrel bent, cannon) can i just stick a baffle plate between the flange? anyone know where i can get one?

Also, if i want to put the FMIC back on and get it engineered, i realise i need a IM240 emmissions test, but will it pass? No other mods. The only place i can go to get it tested is Penrith (earliest booking 5 weeks away) so i need to know of any problems before i drive all the way there. I was told that i would need to install a brand new CAT to pass?

In the end is it really worth it? does the FMIC really give me any power advantage?

thanks in advance,

Chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230895-got-defected-sat-night/
Share on other sites

fmic is illegal for emission's also, because its a modified part of your engine intake tract, therefore it has modified you emission level of the vechil past std because it is now physicaly bigger/longer/thicker then std....

the im240 test is not easy to past for a modified nissan :P put as much back to std as possible

i have an apexi afc neo to put on as well. i am thinking it will help the emmissions test? but i have been told it is a fine line between too lean and too rich to pass.

what mods did you have on you car dave? and how long ago was the test?

i got 4 phone calls on saturday night not to go anywhere near brighton/city as they were defecting and pulling people over to the pits.

my advice is to pm Guilt-Toy as he knows all there is to know for emissions tuning/passing. he has a thread up HERE.

if you're not keen on forking out the $ for a tune and what not then as everyones already said, get it back to stock, get a new o2 sensor to make sure you aren't running overly rich, check timing and see where that gets you.

Hey Chris

Bad news about the defect.

Here are some answers;

You could stick a baffle plate between the flange, just make it out of 2mm sheet yourself. Otherwise you could get a baffle that bolts into the back of the cannon should, that should get it under 90DB, then go to fj mufflers at cardiff or any good exhuast shop and get a test done.

Passing the IM240 isnt easy and leaner can make it worse. Best off with the stock ecu air filter and a stock cat(used is fine) if you can get it modded to fit on your exhaust and then go for the test and see how you go, failing that you might need a full stock exhaust and/or injectors cleaned.

Rta also have a testing centre at botany, they do test there on wednesdays, you might get in there earlier.

Let us know how you go mate

Josh

I don't really need an emmissions test. its only if i want to keep the FMIC on. if i put it back to stock there are no problems. With the exhaust i was just going to buy a cheap muffler and have that fitted for the noise test. I need to take the car to carrington RTA to be inspected as well, so if i had a baffle plate i think they would see it. not sure.

Botany RTA was booked out till October! you would think they would make a testing station in newcastle with all the defects they are giving now days!

So looks like i'll be pulling the bumper off and fitting the stock SMIC untill its passed then in september fit the FMIC and take the car to Penrith and try to get it passed so i can get the damn thing engineered.

don't suppose anyone has a stock muffler they can lend me for a couple of weeks? p.s. i'm booked in on friday at the exhaust place :banana:

Why bother putting the SMIC on then ?

If your already defected and you cannot get a booking to the RTA for emissions test for a few months then ring them and tell them that you have to wait for the test to pass. They will extend your defect notice so your cars rego wont get cancelled.

Leave the FMIC on and go and get your noise test. Buy a piece of 2mm steel plate, get a cat gasket from your local exaust shop.

Remember tracing things at school? get a artliner. Trace the WHOLE gasket, the bolt holes the outside the inside hole the lot.

Now get some tin snips and cut the outside and drill the holes for the bolts, get a drill and drill multiple 10mm holes in the hole in the middle so it restricts your flow.

Make _TWO_ of these and stick one at the front and one at the back of the cat. Go get your noise test then remove it. YES this works.

For the emissions test, if you want to pass we can test your car on a 5gas system in Newcastle on a dyno and i can do dummy IM240 tests on the dyno to see if it is going to pass (Yes we have IM240 testing in Newcastle now) but its only for a guide and for tuning purposes only.

So yeah if you need any assistance let me know and I can look at getting your car passed for a engineers certificate.

Send me a PM and il shoot you my number

cheers

awesome thanks!

problem with the defect is i only have till monday till i cannot drive the car anymore. i rang up the rta and tried to get an extension, but the guy i spoke to just said "tuff luck, you should have had it done when it was fitted"

really don't want to fit the SMIC as it is a pain but not sure what my options are...maybe go see the guys at carrington RTA and ask them there for an extension?

pm sent :P

hey guilt-toy, seeing as your car is engineered and passed all emissions tests, how much has it all set you back roughly? like e.g. we get defected and need an emissions test and an engineers certificate for the front mount and a certificate for the exhaust and sealed pod. An engineers certificate would cost roughly how much?, how about emissions testing? (do you need to pay for this?) + the power fc tune for $150. Once its all done you can still get defected if the officer believes you have modified it further....sure we'll pass the pits first go but do you still pay the fine? Last question : instead of a pod filter, an arc induction box -> being a mod can we get done for this? even though its a panel filter which is slightly larger in size than our stock filters.....

sorry to hijack but i think this will give alot of people a clearer idea on costs etc

Emissions testing is free. The stock air box must be used or you can enclose your pod filter (depends how picky the engineer is) ARC box should be okay, but again consult your engineer!

A engineers certificate can cos anywhere from $350 - $1000

Emissions tuning costs much more then $150, anywhere from $500 to $2000, depends where you get it done.

You pay all fines no matter what, unless you write into the cops and they let you off but i doubt that will happen.

Did you get defected too?

hey guilt-toy, seeing as your car is engineered and passed all emissions tests, how much has it all set you back roughly? like e.g. we get defected and need an emissions test and an engineers certificate for the front mount and a certificate for the exhaust and sealed pod. An engineers certificate would cost roughly how much?, how about emissions testing? (do you need to pay for this?) + the power fc tune for $150. Once its all done you can still get defected if the officer believes you have modified it further....sure we'll pass the pits first go but do you still pay the fine? Last question : instead of a pod filter, an arc induction box -> being a mod can we get done for this? even though its a panel filter which is slightly larger in size than our stock filters.....

sorry to hijack but i think this will give alot of people a clearer idea on costs etc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...