Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been doing some searching and haven't found any answers. If this has been covered many times before please direct me there and delete this post.

I was done for the Exhaust, Atmo BOV, and FMIC.

I've changed the BOV back to standard, Got and original SMIC to install, not just need to do the exhaust.

To get under the required 90db what would i need to do? (3" Mandrel bent, cannon) can i just stick a baffle plate between the flange? anyone know where i can get one?

Also, if i want to put the FMIC back on and get it engineered, i realise i need a IM240 emmissions test, but will it pass? No other mods. The only place i can go to get it tested is Penrith (earliest booking 5 weeks away) so i need to know of any problems before i drive all the way there. I was told that i would need to install a brand new CAT to pass?

In the end is it really worth it? does the FMIC really give me any power advantage?

thanks in advance,

Chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230895-got-defected-sat-night/
Share on other sites

fmic is illegal for emission's also, because its a modified part of your engine intake tract, therefore it has modified you emission level of the vechil past std because it is now physicaly bigger/longer/thicker then std....

the im240 test is not easy to past for a modified nissan :P put as much back to std as possible

i have an apexi afc neo to put on as well. i am thinking it will help the emmissions test? but i have been told it is a fine line between too lean and too rich to pass.

what mods did you have on you car dave? and how long ago was the test?

i got 4 phone calls on saturday night not to go anywhere near brighton/city as they were defecting and pulling people over to the pits.

my advice is to pm Guilt-Toy as he knows all there is to know for emissions tuning/passing. he has a thread up HERE.

if you're not keen on forking out the $ for a tune and what not then as everyones already said, get it back to stock, get a new o2 sensor to make sure you aren't running overly rich, check timing and see where that gets you.

Hey Chris

Bad news about the defect.

Here are some answers;

You could stick a baffle plate between the flange, just make it out of 2mm sheet yourself. Otherwise you could get a baffle that bolts into the back of the cannon should, that should get it under 90DB, then go to fj mufflers at cardiff or any good exhuast shop and get a test done.

Passing the IM240 isnt easy and leaner can make it worse. Best off with the stock ecu air filter and a stock cat(used is fine) if you can get it modded to fit on your exhaust and then go for the test and see how you go, failing that you might need a full stock exhaust and/or injectors cleaned.

Rta also have a testing centre at botany, they do test there on wednesdays, you might get in there earlier.

Let us know how you go mate

Josh

I don't really need an emmissions test. its only if i want to keep the FMIC on. if i put it back to stock there are no problems. With the exhaust i was just going to buy a cheap muffler and have that fitted for the noise test. I need to take the car to carrington RTA to be inspected as well, so if i had a baffle plate i think they would see it. not sure.

Botany RTA was booked out till October! you would think they would make a testing station in newcastle with all the defects they are giving now days!

So looks like i'll be pulling the bumper off and fitting the stock SMIC untill its passed then in september fit the FMIC and take the car to Penrith and try to get it passed so i can get the damn thing engineered.

don't suppose anyone has a stock muffler they can lend me for a couple of weeks? p.s. i'm booked in on friday at the exhaust place :banana:

Why bother putting the SMIC on then ?

If your already defected and you cannot get a booking to the RTA for emissions test for a few months then ring them and tell them that you have to wait for the test to pass. They will extend your defect notice so your cars rego wont get cancelled.

Leave the FMIC on and go and get your noise test. Buy a piece of 2mm steel plate, get a cat gasket from your local exaust shop.

Remember tracing things at school? get a artliner. Trace the WHOLE gasket, the bolt holes the outside the inside hole the lot.

Now get some tin snips and cut the outside and drill the holes for the bolts, get a drill and drill multiple 10mm holes in the hole in the middle so it restricts your flow.

Make _TWO_ of these and stick one at the front and one at the back of the cat. Go get your noise test then remove it. YES this works.

For the emissions test, if you want to pass we can test your car on a 5gas system in Newcastle on a dyno and i can do dummy IM240 tests on the dyno to see if it is going to pass (Yes we have IM240 testing in Newcastle now) but its only for a guide and for tuning purposes only.

So yeah if you need any assistance let me know and I can look at getting your car passed for a engineers certificate.

Send me a PM and il shoot you my number

cheers

awesome thanks!

problem with the defect is i only have till monday till i cannot drive the car anymore. i rang up the rta and tried to get an extension, but the guy i spoke to just said "tuff luck, you should have had it done when it was fitted"

really don't want to fit the SMIC as it is a pain but not sure what my options are...maybe go see the guys at carrington RTA and ask them there for an extension?

pm sent :P

hey guilt-toy, seeing as your car is engineered and passed all emissions tests, how much has it all set you back roughly? like e.g. we get defected and need an emissions test and an engineers certificate for the front mount and a certificate for the exhaust and sealed pod. An engineers certificate would cost roughly how much?, how about emissions testing? (do you need to pay for this?) + the power fc tune for $150. Once its all done you can still get defected if the officer believes you have modified it further....sure we'll pass the pits first go but do you still pay the fine? Last question : instead of a pod filter, an arc induction box -> being a mod can we get done for this? even though its a panel filter which is slightly larger in size than our stock filters.....

sorry to hijack but i think this will give alot of people a clearer idea on costs etc

Emissions testing is free. The stock air box must be used or you can enclose your pod filter (depends how picky the engineer is) ARC box should be okay, but again consult your engineer!

A engineers certificate can cos anywhere from $350 - $1000

Emissions tuning costs much more then $150, anywhere from $500 to $2000, depends where you get it done.

You pay all fines no matter what, unless you write into the cops and they let you off but i doubt that will happen.

Did you get defected too?

hey guilt-toy, seeing as your car is engineered and passed all emissions tests, how much has it all set you back roughly? like e.g. we get defected and need an emissions test and an engineers certificate for the front mount and a certificate for the exhaust and sealed pod. An engineers certificate would cost roughly how much?, how about emissions testing? (do you need to pay for this?) + the power fc tune for $150. Once its all done you can still get defected if the officer believes you have modified it further....sure we'll pass the pits first go but do you still pay the fine? Last question : instead of a pod filter, an arc induction box -> being a mod can we get done for this? even though its a panel filter which is slightly larger in size than our stock filters.....

sorry to hijack but i think this will give alot of people a clearer idea on costs etc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
    • It sounds like you want what the Toyota Landcruisers have for their roof racks. Wanna know what you end up with? Rust holes in the roof, and water everywhere...
    • Discovered today that if I select reverse first and take my foot off the brake, then select drive, the drive indicator light works and so does the tiptronic gear indicator. 
    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Does anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
×
×
  • Create New...