Jump to content
SAU Community

What Tire For R33 Gts25t?

Lithium

By Lithium,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted

Hi all :P

When I finally got my car out to the drags at the end of last season here with a few gremlins still bugging me - the car only managed a 13.3 @ 112mph. At the time, there were other issues anyway so I didn't bother with addressing the lack of grip part of the whole thing but now I have the others all sorted and drag season is coming again :P

The car realistically should be running at least a couple more mph next time I race but the 112mph bit should give a rough idea of the power level I am making. What tires running similar power levels are people using? I have looked around a bit and in my searchings so far on here people have been very unspecific about tires they have used to achieve times.

I am looking at Hoosier Quick Time Pro DOT 26/9.5/16s and maybe to put on stock R33 GTS25t rims at this stage. Has anyone tried these, or have any other combinations they'd recommend? What kind of improvement have you had from going from normal road tires?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231307-what-tire-for-r33-gts25t/
Share on other sites
Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
  • Author
Posted
MT ET Streets. 255/XX/16 on 300zx or R32 GTR wheels.

/thread

Thanks for the input :P Just to clarify, are you aware there are two different "ET Street" drag tire types from MT? One is the DOT dated bias ply "ET Streets" and then the stere are the "street legal" ET Street Radials. Given you have provided a "255/..." type measurement I could assume you could mean the 255/50/16 ET Street Radials?

Please appreciate that I want to make sure I am hearing it from someone who isn't just regurgitating what they have heard or read half paying attention somewhere along the line - I know people who have bought tires from advise given by someone just blurting out specs like that and have ended up worse off for it and would like to be sure I am getting the right thing.

JAS-25T Grand Master

JAS-25T

Posted
Posted

Sorry mate, hahhaha

I have raced my old R33 GTS-T on them, they were borrowed from another R33 GTS-t that was doing 11's RNMENC. Actually, almost everyone I know that drag races in any street class races on them, Including the one and only 2RISMO.

The exact measurements I couldn't tell you but I'm pretty sure they are 255/50's

Here is a thread - talks about sizes, simple search. If you check out the car that is in the first post by bezerk32 Those are the exact tyres and wheels I used. There is some good discussion from a few users, sellers and drag racing whores.

Personally, I would take in what bezerk32 has to say as he has ALOT of experince in Street class R33 GTS-t drag racing.

Here is another thread with some more info on them.

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Oh - and here is another thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Mi...di-t141522.html

It's a group buy that WAS on offer but NO LONGER is i believe. You might find some discussion on it there too.

Gahh I clearly didn't make the search work right. The times I did it I only found things like "MickyT ET Streets" or the such. Thanks man :P

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Oh, and if you need a pair, just let me know.

Cheers! Thanks, that was my initial preferred option but for some reason people warded me off them - but I trust you guys more :starwars:

Can you get them for a decent price, 2rismo? I am NZ based at the moment and they're not easy/cost effective to buy here. At the moment my best option looks like this:

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.as...k=KeywordSearch

2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

Posted
Posted

That's $484NZD for the tyres and a massive amount in shipping. Surely there's a local speed shop who'll sell them to you for $300-ish. Even low $300's each will be cheaper. Plus Summit are out of stock until the end of the month so you'd be waiting quite a while.

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
  • Author
Posted
That's $484NZD for the tyres and a massive amount in shipping. Surely there's a local speed shop who'll sell them to you for $300-ish. Even low $300's each will be cheaper. Plus Summit are out of stock until the end of the month so you'd be waiting quite a while.

You can easily spend >$1kNZ on a pair of tires like that. The local shops I have spoken to don't supply them, a couple have indicated they can try and sort it out but the cost would basically be them buying from an overseas company and charging me for everything + their cut.

I've only ever seen one set of drag radials used here too, most people go the DOT slicks at around 26x10.5x16 which would be a bit more than what I would think I'd need? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-169832480.htm

Also, will I need to upgrade from my heavy duty single plate clutch to a twin plate for 255x50x16 MTs to not destroy the poor thing?

2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

Posted
Posted
You can easily spend >$1kNZ on a pair of tires like that. The local shops I have spoken to don't supply them, a couple have indicated they can try and sort it out but the cost would basically be them buying from an overseas company and charging me for everything + their cut.

I've only ever seen one set of drag radials used here too, most people go the DOT slicks at around 26x10.5x16 which would be a bit more than what I would think I'd need? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-169832480.htm

Also, will I need to upgrade from my heavy duty single plate clutch to a twin plate for 255x50x16 MTs to not destroy the poor thing?

A good single plate is more than enough for most applications. What is power level / engine setup?

I have asked the question of my supplier about shipping to NZ for you. Will let you know the answer.

It would make sense to slot a Jim Berry single in with the tyres to save on shipping. That's what I'd do.

JAS-25T Grand Master

JAS-25T

Posted
Posted
A good single plate is more than enough for most applications. What is power level / engine setup?

I have asked the question of my supplier about shipping to NZ for you. Will let you know the answer.

It would make sense to slot a Jim Berry single in with the tyres to save on shipping. That's what I'd do.

280kw - in his sig.

BTW Lithium, it's Tyres not Tires.

AUS > USA

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
280kw - in his sig. BTW Lithium, it's Tyres not Tires. AUS > USA

LOL yeah I know its tyres (its that in NZ too), I'm not always too sure about how you do things in Oz and get used to using tires on overseas forums. Wanna chup brue?

In terms of decent single plate mine has been holding on fine for ages, I don't think I'd worry about getting a clutch until I reach that point - there are plenty decent one available. The 280kw may not be the same as 280kw on the dynos you are used to, may be closer to 250kw at a guess - whatever a .82a/r GT30R running around 15psi on a stock RB25 would make normally.

2Rismo - thanks for that. Where did the reference to Greenlane speed shop come from? Do you have reason to think they stock Mickey Thompsons?

Edited by Lithium
2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

Posted
Posted
LOL yeah I know its tyres (its that in NZ too), I'm not always too sure about how you do things in Oz and get used to using tires on overseas forums. Wanna chup brue?

In terms of decent single plate mine has been holding on fine for ages, I don't think I'd worry about getting a clutch until I reach that point - there are plenty decent one available. The 280kw may not be the same as 280kw on the dynos you are used to, may be closer to 250kw at a guess - whatever a .82a/r GT30R running around 15psi on a stock RB25 would make normally.

2Rismo - thanks for that. Where did the reference to Greenlane speed shop come from? Do you have reason to think they stock Mickey Thompsons?

Yeah, 250kW sounds about right. If your clutch is fine then leave it but you will find that these tyres will test it to the limit. If it's found wanting, buy a new one. Easy :P

I just googled NZ speed shops and they came up. It was a pretty dismal result though. You'd think that NZ doesn't have a speed parts industry.

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yeah, 250kW sounds about right. If your clutch is fine then leave it but you will find that these tyres will test it to the limit. If it's found wanting, buy a new one. Easy :google:

I just googled NZ speed shops and they came up. It was a pretty dismal result though. You'd think that NZ doesn't have a speed parts industry.

Yeah its pretty shit here for getting parts, my turbo, injectors etc had to be ordered from overseas - if I ordered them through a shop then it would have taken the same effort and amount of time but a bit more money. Not for everything of course, but its not necessarily the easiest. Being one of the more remote countries in the world with a small population basically means its not worth stocking up heavily on parts.

Clutches I *can* get pretty easily and cheaply so the way I see it, if it breaks I can decide whether to get a single or a twin plate. Thanks heaps for your help - good having people who have been there done that!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...