Jump to content
SAU Community

Battery Charger Not Charging?!

Peter

By Peter,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Peter Community Regular

Peter

Posted
Posted

Hi Everyone,

I have had my Skyline (R33) at the back of my girlfriend's house for the past six months. Driving it occassionally, and keeping the battery charged through the use of an automatic battery charger (Projecta 4300 I think), which charges then maintains. Wanted to move the Skyline today, went out and battery was flat (this is a 12 month old battery BTW). So I went to stick the charger on it for a while, and the charger showed power, but no connection for charging (battery is in the boot, and I connect the charger positive to the battery terminal +, and charger earth to where the ground wire meets the chasis). So then I try and connect the charger directly to the battery terminals - still no connection, but power is going through the charger (power light on). I then try and connect the charger to the jump start terminals in the engine bay - still no good! So I assume the charger is buggered. Take the charger out and plug it into my old MQ Patrol - all lights up and starts charging the Patrol??

What am I missing? Is there a fuse that is responsible? Is the battery that buggered it won't charge even when connected directly?? Any help would be muchly appreciated....

Thanks!

Peter

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231496-battery-charger-not-charging/
Share on other sites
rgr34 Proficient

rgr34

Posted
Posted (edited)

ahh ok as said try and charge it overnight on battery posts,if still no good mayb try jump starting it....if that dont work the battery must be buggered if ya really need it to turn it on u tried push starting it if its manual of course! u should take it to any mechanic to test the battery...

Edited by rgr34
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
ahh ok as said try and charge it overnight on battery posts,if still no good mayb try jump starting it....if that dont work the battery must be buggered if ya really need it to turn it on u tried push starting it if its manual of course! u should take it to any mechanic to test the battery...
if the battery is D E A D, it won't ever start on a push-start, because the ECU needs power to set everything up and control the engine.
Kujotk Grand Master

Kujotk

Posted
Posted

y dont you connect another cars battery to it to see if the car turns over at all, that will tell you if the car still works and that the problem probably isnt in the car.

then check to see that there is enough liquid in the battery (dont forget a car sitting around with the windows closed all the time and having the battery in the boot can get as hot as the rest of the car especially if the rear speakers on the partition shelf have been taken out to put child restraints in for compliance) because it is likely that it may have just evaporated out. Since the battery is in the boot it means the battery is also clean and if the battery is one of those transparent ones to see where the water level is you may bee thinking that the battery is full of water when infact it is completely dry so take the battery out to check the water level

then check that the charger is pushing atleast 13volts of current. even if it is pushing 12volts get a new charger. Most 12volt chargers are pushing about 14volts out to charge a battery

other than that i dont know what it could be, mabey pulled out some wires or something....

cuppas Community Regular

cuppas

Posted
Posted

yeah take it to a mate who has a battery tester

if the level of liquid is fine, it either means the plates inside the battery have started to wear, or the acid solution inside the battery is too weak

if youre ghetto, you can just drain the battery, refill with the acid solution and see how you go from there

or you could buy a new battery with higher CCA thats the same size

= less stress on the battery

Peter Community Regular

Peter

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies!

Took the battery out and checked the water levels - all good. Stuck the charger on, still nothing....the battery has one of those little circles you look through with a legend next to it - green = OK; red = water low; black = ! (return to shop)....mine is black so I think it's stuffed. Well at least it's only 12 months old, and has a warranty of 3 years.....I'll take it back tommorrow....

Cheers,

Peter

Peter Community Regular

Peter

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the help!

Took it back and they connected it to a big ass battery tester and charger, which then printed me out a little receipt saying "Warranty invalid, extremely discharged, user abuse." I saw the voltage of the battery on the screen - 2.1V - which is pretty low!

BUT, they are following it up for me with the company that makes the batteries, as they said they will sometimes come to the warranty party...so I'll see what happens...

I must have a continuos small discharge somewhere in my car, as from what I understand, large discharges such as amps will flatten batteries, but small continuos discharges will really kill them over the long run....wonder what it could be?

Pete

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...