Jump to content
SAU Community

No High Boost

big col

By big col,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

big col Collaborator

big col

Posted
Posted

Today my near-enough stock R33 decided it didn't want to hit high boost. I'm pretty sure it's the ECU restricting the turbo as the boost is fine and completely normal on low boost. But when I hit ~4500rpm when high boost would normally kick in it doesn't, just stays on low boost up to the limiter.

I've had some brown rusty crap in my radiator cap for a few months now before and after taking it to a radiator place (where they said they didn't think anything was rusted... wasn't exactly the most glamorous workshop though. The coolant doesn't have any rusty bits in it and seems completely normal apart from having a brown tinge (which the radiator place said was the colour of their coolant). Anyway, it hasn't overheated at all and the temp gauge is always below the half-way mark in it's usual spot.

I'm leaning towards either a rusty radiator (or engine block... that would suck) not cooling the car down well enough and the ecu restricting the turbo as a result.... but nothing has changed since the last 3+months and today. Or is it a sign that my turbo is on it's way out? I might unplug the battery and leave it like that overnight in an attempt to reset the ECU... but apart from that I'm at a loss to what the cause is. I've checked the oil/coolant level (do it regularly anyway) and even ripped out the air filter to check it was clean. I hate my car lately, giving me nothing but trouble ;)

Any suggestions on the cause/what to do?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231558-no-high-boost/
Share on other sites
maka Enthusiast

maka

Posted
Posted

Hey man.

I am guessing you are talking about an R33 gtst.

The stock boost controller is controlled by the ecu, and there could be a variety of things causing it not to go into high boost.

I personally couldnt be bothered trying to figure it out, and instead removed the standard boost controller, which gave me 7psi, all the way through the rev range.

have a look on the forums, in regards to disabling the standard boost controller. from memory it was something like shorting out the black wire to ground, which sends a signal back to the ecu. don't qoute me on that, but have a look on the forums, and you will find the post.

If your temp gauge sits half way or there abouts, your temperature should be ok. And i doubt that the temperature would affect the computer boosting.

And man, dont feel disheartened by this, it happens to all of us, i know how i felt when mine melted a piston, but now that she's all good again, i realise whyh i love it so much hehe.

You'll get it sorted.

Hope this helps.

Cheers maka.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231558-no-high-boost/#findComment-4067164
Share on other sites
Magic Experienced

Magic

Posted
Posted

It won't be the reason for losing boost, but In regards to the rusty radiator, It might 90% be radiator hose fitting into the plenum.

If you remove the radiator hose going into the engine I'm pretty sure you will find that the metal fitting the hose slots in will be all corroded away. I had the same problem with all that crap under teh radiator cap and got my dad to fabricate me a stainless steel hose fitting replacement.

Here's what my new one looks like.. 34radfitting.jpg

But like I mentioned this won't be what's causing your boost problem. And I guess the radiator workshop would have checked what i explained so yeh...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231558-no-high-boost/#findComment-4067354
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • BuiltNotBought
      Airbox for +T

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • BuiltNotBought
      Airbox for +T

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • BuiltNotBought
      Airbox for +T

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...