Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, Just letting you know that NGK copper spark plugs melt if you drive to hard/fast for even just small short bursts. Mine have done 6000kms and they are well and truely stuffed. Putting a set of Iridiums in... But they are not cheap @ $21 a plug

Cheers

Sumo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23158-copper-spark-plugs/
Share on other sites

which plugs will suit an R33? I heard there are different thread reach & diametre, also heat range. Thread reach like how far the plug will screw into your engine, get the wrong thread reach (too deep), your plug tip might hit your piston?

i dont have a listing for a rb25 as it wasnt sold here u'll have to ring ngk and ask them ( they dont list in their website rb25's)

u r right u ll have to get the right length and heat range , if u give ngk a ring they should be able to tell u .

Well I've run NGK coppers on the track for a whole day of thrashing and they seem to still be running fine for daily driving. Maybe you were running the wrong heat range?

I've used Iridiums on my last skyline....they were great but no better than a new set of coppers. I used to pull them out, clean them and put em back in and wonder why I didn't just put a brand new set of $3 coppers in...?

platinum and iridum plugs are better cause the tip is only .6 mm and u get much better spark . the reson the nickel plugs tip is thicker is cause if they made it that thin it would only last a few k's platinum and especialy iridium are much harder so last a lot longer .

typical life , nickel 30k k's , platinum 100 , iridium 150.

probably less in a turbo gtr driving it hard less still but still 5 times longer than nickel .

I used the Copper NGK BCPR6E.... which is a colder plug then is recommended. the 5 heat range is recommended.

Duncan: no idea, only put them in yesterday.... But the stalk that the plug sparks too was half melted off and gone (hopefully it didn't hurt any valves... Its prolly stuck in my cat convertor.

The Iridium plug im running now is what was recommended for the GTR BCPR6EIX-11. They seem a shit load better, its purring like a ***** now. My car is only for street use, but the thing that ****ed 4 plugs was one run from 0 -180km/h, redlining each gear. Maybe it was running to lean? Im not a mechanic so I cant tell you... But I have a sneaking suspicion thats what it was, because thats the only way it would get hot enough to melt a plug??

Sumo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...