Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Firstly, please let me know if there is somewhere better that I should have posted this. I threw it to the local Canberra one but haven't had too many bites yet!

Now, I am sure this is out there somewhere but I have been searching for ages with no luck! Basically I would like to rebuild my GTR at some stage. I want to do a full rebuild, mostly for strengthening so I can get some more power out of her and so I know that there are good quality parts in there and what stage they are at. I don't plan to wait until I break it, this is something I want to do in my own time when I am ready and when I am prepared (well hopefully this will be before I break it!).

So basically I'm just after a full list of parts that are required. I have seen various people's posts but they don't go into huge detail. I'm not after opinions on brands or parts at this stage, just a lost of parts themselves. Will research into certain bits as required when I find out what they all are. Figure I can slowly start purchasing and accumulating stuff :huh:

Any help will be greatly appreciated, I'm the first to admit that I don't know shit about this sort of stuff just yet, I learn as I go!

Cheers,

Kat

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/232539-engine-rebuild-for-rb26dett/
Share on other sites

Ok thanks will try the forced induction as well. I've spent bloody ages trolling through here and the GTR UK forums too but can't really find specifically what I'm looking for. :P

I'm not after anything stupid in terms of power. Currently I have only basic mods such as pods, boost controller, power fc, exhaust (all Apexi) along with some coilovers and suspension work and some Garrett 2860R-7 turbos.

It's only going to be used for driving around and some track days. I'll be happy with somewhere around 300-350kw at all 4 wheels if my turbos are capable of handling this. Otherwise would still like to go ahead with the rebuild with the view of changing the turbos down the track.

I just want to be really prepared when I get this done and I'm a bit clueless at the moment!

Another good idea for when you are doing a rebuild is to have the rear Hicas removed, rather then having it locked off completely, unless you are happy with the GTRs rear end play. Keep in mind for the GTR it is pricey to have the engine removed, so it is better to get everything done at once that can be done. OH! and a absolute must is to have upper oil galley restrictors put in, that alone will solve the bottom end being starved for oil (if you do a fair amount of drifting, a oil pan baffle would be a good ides aswell), aswell as a after market crank collar (Tomei?) for the sump.

I've heard of a lot of people having the rear Hicas removed or locked off... I shall look into the benefits of doing that but up to now I haven't had much of an issue with the rear end play.

Yes I'm hoping to do this properly and do everything at once while the engine is out, including getting the head ported and polished. No drift plans as yet but that doesn't mean that it isn't going to happen! Thankyou for your help it's all very much appreciated! :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Try looking at Eibacb/H&R springs Thats what Gary sourced for mine.
    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
×
×
  • Create New...