Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah ive read that heaps of time, that putting in a metal shim style headgasket will give you better compression to run more boost. How much boost would u be able to run with metal headgasket and std internals? or even better how much in say an RB20 :D ?

  • Replies 105
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Im assuming the reason so many RB25 owners often run thicker/aftermarket headgaskets is so they can dial in a little more boost as the lower compression ratio starves off detonation.

RB20s already have a lower compression ratio of 8.5:1 (vs R33 9.0:1) meaning that it isnt as common to see RB20s running thicker head gaskets in the quest to run more boost.

Im actually considering upping my compression ration if my engine needs rebuilding.:bahaha:

bbenny, its hard to say, just gotta get the car on a dyno and see what happens. Tuning, fuel, intercooler. plugs, etc - all make a bit contribution to how well the engine will handle boost.

On the subject of power to boost, a guy I know was getting around 230rwkw with the same turbo on an SR20 at 1.2bar.

1.3 bar was 240

1.4 bar was 250

1.5 bar was over 280,

so I am hoping for good things as the turbo gets up around the 1.5bar mark - time will tell.

bbenny, dont worry about dropping the compression ratio, or fitting a thicker head gasket.

My thoughts are the less boost you can run to make your required power the better.

For an RB20 i dont see 1.3-1.4bar being too much a problem on the street, as long as

- You stick to the factory rev limit (with your 2530, perhaps think about dropping it to say 6,800rpm)

- Your fuelling, engine cooling etc is keeping up.

- Proper care is paid to maintenance.

I say on the street as you are never really afforded the opportunity to sustain high engine loads for long durations.

If venturing out onto the circuit, i would wind a little boost out of it.

Lowering the compression will bring detonation higher in the rev range and thus you should be able to wind up the boost more without detonating in your car's rev range. But lowering the compression is also going to make off boost performance worse. So there's a tradeoff, like most things.

Steve, has the power curve been fixed up now so that power increases in a nice smooth fashion? Will be good to see the results at 1.5bar when the turbo is most efficient. When are you getting the head gasket done? You going to do cams too?

EVO, I am doing cams at the same time, I have 256/8.8in and264/9.0ex so hopefully will take car of the off boost response side of things. The crazy thing is, at the moment off boost is so much stronger than with the stock turbo its amazing. I put this down to a decent set of headers (tuned lenght, ceramic coated) and I am not sure if the front facing plenum is helping too, all up it is awesome. The car is just bloody awesome to drive, just wants to go hard:)

I may have to go a larger turbine housing if it starts to choke the top end, but I am keeping my fingers crossed.

Paul, cheers mate, so how is the GT30 coming along? I have decided that you guys will need to have a bbq when you come over for the drift day. Are you driving over? Would love to check it out:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...