Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all?

Recently, I fitted an SSQ BOV to my R33 GTS-T & now I'm running really sluggish. I don't have much experience & i'm learning as I go on but can sum1 plz explain 2 me what I have done wrong? I'll explain what I did and you all can give your conclusions...

Ok, so I removed the stock BOV & bolted a thin peice of metal 2 cover the whole. I did't have a bolt on BOV adapter so I cut a whole 2wards the end of the piping at the front end, & welded the BOV on. Ran the vacuum hose as needed & bobs your uncle!

Now, since doing this, I seem 2 have an issue with the car not idling correctly at times. Then other times it seems to be Ok? At low revs the car feels really sluggish, kinda like the clutch is slipping, or there is some kind of stutter or lag. Also noticed it backfiring a lot more now too.

Whilst driving yesterday, nearly everytime I pulled up at a set of lights the car would either stall as I came 2 a stop or it would idle quite low then just pick up again in time 2 idle normal.

Is there sumthing I have done wrong when I fitted the BOV or is it just pure coincidence & I have another issue? I've rattling my brain trying 2 think what it could be???

Could it be losing air sumwhere & that's what's causing me grief? A few friends have said it could be my timing belt or clutch is on the way out? I'm so lost I have no idea where 2 look...???

Any comments or help would be fantastic & very much appreciated!!!

Cheers

:(

Well, something is wrong.

I suggest that you fit the old bov, and remove the ssqv and block the new opening, see if that fixes the issues. Then do one thing at a time to see where you are going wrong. E.G., remove the old bov and block off, then go for a drive. If this works, then you know that it's the new ssqv or fitting. If not, then you know you have a sealing problem with the thin piece of metal blocking the old bov hole. Etc. etc. Did you block off the rebreathing hole that feeds back to the turbo air feed? did you use some kind of gasket between the thin peice of metal and the old bov hole? etc etc.

Yeah that makes sense...Just wish there was a quicker way instead of going step by step.

Funny thing with the rebreathing pipe feeding back 2 the turbo is I had 2 McGuiver sumthing up 2 block it off. Couldn't find anything useful & wait for it...don't laugh too much but I ended up blocking it off with a champaigne cork & fastened the pipe. It's got a firm fit & doesn't appear to be leaking air...??? LOL

There was a gasket from the original BOV so I just used the same one again & made the thin piece of metal to suit the gasket size & shape.

So, you don't think it's another issue? Like timing belt or clutch or sumthing expensive like that then...???

:(

Well, something is wrong.

I suggest that you fit the old bov, and remove the ssqv and block the new opening, see if that fixes the issues. Then do one thing at a time to see where you are going wrong. E.G., remove the old bov and block off, then go for a drive. If this works, then you know that it's the new ssqv or fitting. If not, then you know you have a sealing problem with the thin piece of metal blocking the old bov hole. Etc. etc. Did you block off the rebreathing hole that feeds back to the turbo air feed? did you use some kind of gasket between the thin peice of metal and the old bov hole? etc etc.

why would you consider it being something bigger like a clutch or timing belt without first ruling out the obvious problem of your wanktastic blow off valve?(recently converted to stock and will never go back!) :D

Dont be lazy, firstly go through wat was already explained to diagnose where in the BOV setup your problem lies. IF that doesnt work then maybe look outside the square for another problem.

ive got a "look at me look at me" dual trumpet atmo bov and my car does the same. its just wat happens wen u change to an aftermarket bov that releases the air into the atmosphere instead of plumbing back. sorry to say ive found nothing that fixes it so its either buy a new aftermarket one with atmosphere and plumb back and find a median that sounds good for you, or just go back to stock.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...