Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 1 month later...
Both Brady and Ben x Tilbrooks are working at JMS with me now

top guys who both know there stuff and not burnt out like some of us lol

its looking like gtr central down here at the moment so

we might have to focus on gtr's alittle more in the future

were buying up a storm in Japan right now

Hey man can i tell Brady Matthew from the barrosa valley`s been lookin for him since he left tilbrooks for him to do some more work on my gunmetal 32GTR, he done the turbos on my GTR at tilbrooks

yeh brady is a top bloke. went for a spin in the hills with a mate (in his car that brady built quite a bit of) brady was with us, had a bit of an accident and he didnt mind opening up tilbrooks for us at 5am to drop off the car for repairs! And yeh he's at JMS now.

Edited by KISIN

I had Brady have a quick look at my 33 a few weeks ago with my exhaust manifold issue. Very nice bloke, was happy to help. Although i received a very overpriced quote.

Got charged almost half of that quote elsewhere last week for the same job :)

I'll take that as a yes then, that 180 was in there when my engine conversion was getting done and i remember seeing the damage and Brady telling me what had happend :D

its actually a sil80 but yeh, luckly i was in the car behind with another mate hahah...what a night.

cant put a price on quality work these days :)

from memory $800 for heater core was supplying brand new core and fitting, coolant etc

as Brady didn't want end up stuffing you around by fitting a potentially faulty secondhand unit

brady's well know for doing the things the right way first time everytime

it may seem more expensive but from what Ive seen in the long run it works out cheaper for everyone

didn't you already fit a "new" leaking core?

end of the day a workshop is never going to be a cheap as doing something yourself

but if your like me I prefer someone who knows more than I do to be working on my car

so Im happy to pay for that knowledge

Edited by 1400r
cant put a price on quality work these days :)

from memory $800 for heater core was supplying brand new core and fitting, coolant etc

as Brady didn't want end up stuffing you around by fitting a potentially faulty secondhand unit

brady's well know for doing the things the right way first time everytime

it may seem more expensive but from what Ive seen in the long run it works out cheaper for everyone

didn't you already fit a "new" leaking core?

end of the day a workshop is never going to be a cheap as doing something yourself

but if your like me I prefer someone who knows more than I do to be working on my car

so Im happy to pay for that knowledge

as i said the the owner of the shop what is it gold plated i had already been quoted $220 labour for the complete job by an import specialist and that included fluids but not regasing of my air con

he told me a brand new core was $270 so why were they going to charge me another $600 for fitting of it, bah go where you like we all have to do our own research

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think the shuffle can damage the turbos. It only happens at low shaft speeds and loads. It's just annoying (to some people - others are tickled by the effect) and it quite possibly reduces spool performance a little bit.
    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
×
×
  • Create New...