Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've fitted a couple of different bleed valves and each time it wants to hold close to the right boost in 1st, then every other gear tries to go all the way to 1bar before it hits the fuel cut. Anybody got any ideas as to what this is? Im concerned that if i get an electronic one it may not work also.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23353-boost-probs/
Share on other sites

fuel cut is a bitch! you should be able to get a bleed valve to spike at about 1bar and drop a little under without hitting fuel cut. if you have a standard turbo i wouldnt run it any higher than that anyway. if you have an aftermarket turbo i would get your ecu retuned or buy a fuel cut defender...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23353-boost-probs/#findComment-499954
Share on other sites

The problem isn't the fuel cut. The bleed valve was adjusted accordingly and no matter what it doesn't hold boost. I set both bleed valves to run at 0.7bar and each time no matter which way i turned the valve 1st gear would hold the boost level desired then 2nd gear onwards would try and go all the way to 1bar. Any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23353-boost-probs/#findComment-501145
Share on other sites

hmmm have you tried moving the bleed valve all together, i know my turbosmart valve wouldnt run anything less than 1bar, they arent very good.

otherwise look for a split in the actuator hose, ive seen splits that cause overboost a few times.

first try removing the bleeder, if it still runs over 0.7-0.8bar replace the vacume hose and try again

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23353-boost-probs/#findComment-501195
Share on other sites

nah buy an EBC they control the boost level, basically you tell it what you want to run and it holds the wastgate closed till it reaches that level then opens it.

they are far more precise than a bleedvalve. im ditching my bleedvalve for one now.

im looking at either a blitz SBC IDii or an apexi AVCR both of those give you alot of precise adjustments.

not as cheap as a bleed valve unfortunately :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23353-boost-probs/#findComment-501249
Share on other sites

IT may have a 3" dump pipe on there but im not 100% sure, either way it goes straight into a stocko silvia exhaust after that. Where do i remove the stock boost solenoid??? 2nd gear onwards doesn't hold boost at all no matter where the bleed valve is adjusted to. Im just concerned that when i get an ebc it won't work either.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23353-boost-probs/#findComment-502960
Share on other sites

My friend has a 180sx 2L turbo. he put his on the dyno the other day at CRD and was dissapointed that it wouldn't hold boost either, he has a FMIC, dual stage boost controller, bosch fuel pump, filter exhaust...

CRD put it down the the fact that no matter how high they boosted it, it wouldn't hold the boost because there was a loose spring in the turbo that was soft. so his spikes to 17PSI but drops straight off to 12PSI or so. only makes 153.4KW at the wheels. it should be making more, he is going to change the turbo.

sorry to ramble, just thought if you had a stock turbo that might be the problem

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23353-boost-probs/#findComment-503529
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...