Jump to content
SAU Community

Hicas?

Buddy

By Buddy,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

dat16dog Contributor

dat16dog

Posted
Posted
hello i just have a few questions on the hicas on the r33s please and really need some help cause im having a bet ith a mate an i want to win

what is hicas (is it like 4 wheel steer)?

how does it work?

what models is it on?

yes its 4 wheel steering

has a steering rack acting on the rear wheels moves them about 1 degree i think at speeds over 80 kmh (some one will correct me if im wrong)

models? lots but not sure wich ones exactly but my R33 GTR has it!

hicas is short for Help I Cant Actualy Steer joking sorry lol :D got no idea what it means. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233571-hicas/#findComment-4094971
Share on other sites
Buddy Community Regular

Buddy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
yes its 4 wheel steering

has a steering rack acting on the rear wheels moves them about 1 degree i think at speeds over 80 kmh (some one will correct me if im wrong)

models? lots but not sure wich ones exactly but my R33 GTR has it!

hicas is short for Help I Cant Actualy Steer joking sorry lol :D got no idea what it means. :P

so if i turn my wheels on the ground i will see the rear move?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233571-hicas/#findComment-4094994
Share on other sites
Buddy Community Regular

Buddy

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

found this...

HICAS (High Capacity Actively Controlled Suspension) is Nissan's rear wheel steering system found on cars ranging from the more recent Skyline and Z iterations to smaller models like the Nissan Cefiro (A31), 240SX/180SX and Nissan Serena/Nissan Largo. It is also found on models from Nissan's Infiniti division, such as the Q45 and the M45/M35. Unlike other four wheel steering systems, HICAS and Super HICAS are fitted to improve handling rather than as a parking aid.

Earlier HICAS versions used hydraulics to steer the rear wheels. The hydraulic system was powered by the power steering pump and used speed sensors to determine how much and in which direction to steer the rear wheels. Later versions, called Super HICAS, moved to an electric actuator for the rear steering rack, making the system much lighter. The Super HICAS system also used its own computer to control the system instead of speed sensors. HICAS and Super HICAS rear wheel steering is limited to about 1 degree in either direction.

HICAS was introduced on the 1986 Skyline GTS coupes (GTS, GTS-R, and GTS-X). The system was later adapted to work on many models in the Nissan range, beginning with the Passage GT.

HICAS is the acronym for Nissans rear wheel steering system named High Capacity Actively Controlled Steering. HICAS works using different sensors which calculate speed, steering angle and corner position the rear wheels are steered by a maximum of 1 degree based on these measurements. HICAS helps eliminate body and give the car a more nimble fell, it does it job well and is helpful for the average driver who doesn’t push the car to its limits.

On a racetrack however HICAS becomes to intrusive and unpredictable, particularly on long high-speed corners, counter-steering is often needed to correct the Skyline though the corner, this is not good for lap times. Race team’s usually use a lock bar to disable the HICAS system which improves the Skylines balance, resulting in more predicable handling and faster lap times.

Earlier skylines (the R32) used a hydraulic system which had speed sensors and used the power steering pump to steer the rear wheels. The newer version named Super HICAS was used from the R33 onward; electric actuators were used a long with a onboard computer, this version saved weight, and is said to be a much improved system.

Edited by Buddy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233571-hicas/#findComment-4095310
Share on other sites
(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

^^ From what you found, which I think is from Wikipedia.

In short, the HICAS helps with turning.

From what I read, as you turn a corner while traveling over 80km/h the rear wheels will turn 1 full degree in the opposite direction in order to help the car turn "Better".

If you are not use to the HICAS, you will feel the rear 'kick out' abit.

Its just to assist you in turning at high speeds but a lot of ppl dont like it as it can be an annoyance, like I said you can feel the car kick or helping you to drive towards the turning direction and sometimes you might end up over steering.

I do believe they came standard on GTR's only.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233571-hicas/#findComment-4095704
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW 335i

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • Duncan
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Duncan · Posted

      I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW 335i

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...