Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

been searching and just clearing up some confusion i have

install a lock bar on a R32 and you can remove the whole hicas system savin about 20-30kg or soo

bypassing the hicas will cause heavy steering at low speeds

cutting the warning signal on the hicas ecu, will that just stop the light from coming on or will it also take out the heavy steering??

running a aftermarket ecu eg Power FC. will i have the heavy steering problem?

thanks

Gordon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233684-lock-bar/
Share on other sites

i have a lockbar installed and the lines from the power steering pump are just re-routed back into

the reserviour and i haven't got heavy steering,but my hicas light is always on.

I did NOT cut any electrical wires.

Just remove the globe if the hicas light bothers you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233684-lock-bar/#findComment-4096472
Share on other sites

you keep the hicas control unit plugged in (it's the box under the parcel shelf).

remove the rear rack and install your lock bar.

you remove all the under car stuff and the unit in the drivers side of the engine bay.

When you have removed the above you will have 2 lines with no where to go. Chop off the banjos, get some hose and hook them together.

remove the light in the dash.

Job done, no heavy steering issues, no warning light to bother you. There is a way to keep the warning light active for the power steering fluid level by cutting one wire somewhere but i don't remember which wire.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233684-lock-bar/#findComment-4096804
Share on other sites

i have a lockbar installed and the lines from the power steering pump are just re-routed back into

the reserviour and i haven't got heavy steering,but my hicas light is always on.

I did NOT cut any electrical wires.

Just remove the globe if the hicas light bothers you.

Exact same situation with me, lockbar in, everything else removed, pump routed back to resevoir, no heavy steering, haven't chopped any wires and HICAS light is permanently on but doesn't really bother me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233684-lock-bar/#findComment-4098628
Share on other sites

you keep the hicas control unit plugged in (it's the box under the parcel shelf).

remove the rear rack and install your lock bar.

you remove all the under car stuff and the unit in the drivers side of the engine bay.

When you have removed the above you will have 2 lines with no where to go. Chop off the banjos, get some hose and hook them together.

remove the light in the dash.

Job done, no heavy steering issues, no warning light to bother you. There is a way to keep the warning light active for the power steering fluid level by cutting one wire somewhere but i don't remember which wire.

+1

This is exactly wat i did and i have no heavy steering or warning light (Cut the speed sensor wire coming from the hicas ecu under your parcel shelf. NOT the one coming from the ecu) Its green and yellow.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233684-lock-bar/#findComment-4099806
Share on other sites

I do believe that you should take out the fins in the hicas pump otherwise you will blow you power steer pump up as it will still try to pressurize the system thats why I havnt instaled my kazama hicas kit yet can anyone else confirm this as this was told to me by a couple of import shops cheers luke....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233684-lock-bar/#findComment-4102794
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...