Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi ppl.

i am going to replace my stock fuel pump with the bosch 040 fuel pump.

the problem is that most ppl had done r32 and r33 but the r34 is alot different than the both....

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...bosch+fuel+pump

looking at this previous post. nothing is similar to what i have in my r34 gtt.

instead of unscrewing the cradle which is connected to the fuel pump, mine is like a screw type cover (which i am having difficulty removing). and the position of the fuel pump is near the end of the boot instead of the boot(towards the back seat).

any one have any idea if the fuel fump installation will be the same as the r33 and r32?

many thanks in advance.

cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233688-er34-fuel-pump/
Share on other sites

What are you on about?

Installation is same a R33.. unbolt cover which is in the boot right hand side of the shelf/lifted part of the boot behind the rear seat.

Use a hammer and peice of wood to "undo" the fuel tank lid it takes awhile.

Pull the pump wires out + hoses.

Pull out pump by pulling up toward you if your having trouble finding it.. it is located about 20cm inside the tank on the wall closest to the rear seat.

Replace and ur pumping away.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233688-er34-fuel-pump/#findComment-4096693
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
×
×
  • Create New...