Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

posting on behalf of a friends r33 which has serious problem

mods

rb25det series 1

splitfire coilpacks

cooler

exhaust

10psi

stock ecu

items we have tried and replaced with items off my car.

afm

3 different fuel pumps, now running stock rb25 fuel pump

coil pack igniter

cas

fuel regulator

basically im gonna try best describe what the car does.

sometimes the car will drive fine for half a day or all day then all of a sudden the car will start surging just while driving along at 60kmph or 100kmph

this is when the fun begins, once the car starts surging it will basically just cut the ignition and u have to put ur foot flat to the floor to keep the engine going, thing is the car doesnt rev or go anywhere with it flat

to the floor, u can hear the turbo spooling and the bov goes off a bit but the motor isnt reving or accelerating and thats flat to the floor for about 20-30secs, and if u take ur foot off the accelerator the car will die

and u have to roll over side of the road and kick it over 3-4 times before it will go again.

the fella has a powerfc there aswell that he has tried plugging in and using on base map but it does the exact same thing.

does anyone have any ideas? we r out of ideas.

have tried replacing the above items but nothing has fixed it.

Edited by l0WRB
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233713-serious-problem-with-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

well the car u have to hold the accelerator flat to the floor to keep the motor from stalling and u can hear the turbo spooling still but the car doesnt accelerate or go anywhere like uve got it in neutral, and if you just let your foot of the accelrator the car will die and wont start again until u pull over and kick it over 3-4 times.

fuel filter has been replaced, plugs has been replaced, vacum leaks have been checked all clamps.

havnt checked for bad earth or anything? only thing i cant think of that is earthed is ya igniter pack?

hmmm pretty sure its all bolted on near towards coilpack no6

its really fkn hard 2 guess wot it is though

the car starts and runs perfect and then all of a sudden it will just do this out of the blue

wether u flog or baby the car.

Edited by l0WRB

So you've checked all the cooler piping and joins?

When my pipes partially blew off it wouldn't rev past 4grand, wouldn't make full boost obviously but was still spooling, it was just a massive air leak that would only open up under pressure. Off boost it drove fine. Made the car run pretty crap though under boost.

....ummmm blocked cat maybe?

yeah its not a vacum leak or join

the car WONT accelerate or make any boost, but u can hear the turbo spooling as u hold ur foot flat to the floor for 20-30 secs.

car doesnt DO ANYTHING at all cept roll along, its messed up.

car is running gutted cat. hmmm

Edited by l0WRB

If the car is lowered remove the front right wheel, then the guard cover, and check to see if the loom as been damaged by the wheel itself. I have seen lowered cars rub through the looms and create massive shorts and problems. One even caught fire and the loom had to be replaced.

Is it more likely to happen in the wet, hot days, after X amount of driving, on rough roads, etc.

Also make sure you carefully check all the wiring, especially in the engine bay.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...