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This isn't in anticipation of the dyno day is it???

:bahaha:

Boosters are shit, they only raise 0.1 of a octane point.

There's really one foolproof way and that's 10% or more toluene.

That gives real full points octane boostage. But I wonder if it's worth it. It certain is in track situations.

T.

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my experience was quite crap dude....

filled up with mobil synergy 8000 and a bottle of octane booster a couple of nights before my maiden EC off street drags with the wrx.

car started misfiring and it couldnt shake it till after EC...misfired all the way down the quarter but still ran a 13.5s...

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I used octane booster for racing type affairs when my tune wasn't the best. Obviously only an advantage when using the best fuel available to you. On another note, also very handy for country trips where there is only shitty regular fuel available.

I have used the Nulon Pro-Strength as I was stuck with regular in country NSW and it worked a treat.

Adrian

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I use the Nulon stuff as well. Your car has to be tuned for it to be effective so you can't just chuck it in and expect it to work. Everyone that tells you their car ran rough when they tried it is finding this out.

More people say it doesn't work and some say it slowly wrecks your internals but no one has so far backed it up with evidence as far as I've seen.

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Originally posted by Blitz

Does some interesting things to spark plugs - as far as I know you can use you as long as your engine is running hot enough to burn it up. Anyone care to clarify?

This may seem like a controversial statement:

"You should run your car on the lowest octane fuel it is designed for."

But if you look into what happens during combustion it becomes a bit clearer. For the best performance (be it economy or power) there needs to be a controlled burning of the fuel air mixture. This is dependant on pressure, mixture, fuel, temp., ignition and whatever else.

By raising the octane rating of the fuel it will resist detonation (where the fuel/air mix explodes rather than burns), i.e. the infamous "detonation" or "pinging". Put simply, the higher the compression ratio (or boost) then the higher the octane rating required for the fuel.

Now, if you are running 98 octane in your engine that is designed to run on 91 then all the fuel is not being burnt during combustion as the temperatures and pressures are not high enough. Therefore a reduction in performance will be the result.

If your engine has a knock sensor fitted then it will automatically adjust the timing to suit whatever fuel is going through the pipes for the required performance. That's about it as far as my technical knowledge goes.

Now someone please correct me if I'm wrong:

The knock sensor is also called a lambda sensor and measures the unburnt oxygen via the oxygen sensor, right? If the system is a closed loop system then it can adjust the timing to suit the fuel used.

The RB25DET (stock ECU) does not have this as you have to tune it for the fuel being used , right?

Any corrections appreciated. :)

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Avgas will coat your O2 sensors as well as block up your cat convertor! I Always run Optimax or Ultimate with Wynns race formula or Nulon prostrength when iwind the boost up on the Sx as insurance against pinging. I would have thought that ALL Jap imports would benefit greatly from 98 fuel & a good octane booster as there tuning is designed for 100. My Mates 300zx improved considerably from 98 & NF blackoctane booster as he could put another couple of degrees timing into it. He Run 13.2 then with timing dropped to 12.8.

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