32gtr Rebuilt Engine Blown After Just 5000 K's - Help

[STATUS]

Hmm, Ok in the last post though someone suggested using a plasti guage to do this and then someone else said that was a stupid idea and doesn't work.

What is the best way to ensure the clearance is perfect?

Thanks for your help guys

You really need to use a outside micrometer and bore gauge (correct term???? )

[Swiper the Fox]

i suggest the conrod has not been checked and is is possibly out of round on the big end.

[R31Nismoid]

threads merged, silly to have two when there was lots of info in the first

[GTR1993]

You really need to use a outside micrometer and bore gauge (correct term???? )

the one in the bore looks like a telescopic gauge?

I prefer to get a dial bore inducator, that can go from you main and big end size all the way to you piston bore. I then use an outside mic on the crank.

[Brockas]

Now I put the motor back together all to spec and torque, I ran in the new rings with run in motor oil and all was well the car was driving fine... and FAST!

So when you say clearences what do you mean? suddenly I am feeling a little sheepish.

Wait, you're driving FAST while on a run in, and you don't know what clearences are, but you're trying to build your own motor?

My god man, take it to a workshop before it happens again!

Did you even get the crank machined to suit the bearings???

[STATUS]

the one in the bore looks like a telescopic gauge?

I prefer to get a dial bore indicator, that can go from you main and big end size all the way to you piston bore. I then use an outside mic on the crank.

thats ^^^ the one (dial bore indicator) i forgot the term

[GTR1993]

thats ^^^ the one (dial bore indicator) i forgot the term

haha don't mind my spelling, i think im the first university educated engineer with the spelling skills at a grade 6 student lol

on a side not i tried to edit that last post and the edit button has vanished, but is on this post??

Edited September 24, 2008 by GTR1993

[BlackR32]

No no no, I wasnt driving fast during run in, I did the complete run in cycle, 5000 k's of labouring and babying and so on, with correct fluids, then 500 K's on new redline oils, then oil change again to make sure all was well and THEN the problem came up.

[Swiper the Fox]

the one in the bore looks like a telescopic gauge?

I prefer to get a dial bore inducator, that can go from you main and big end size all the way to you piston bore. I then use an outside mic on the crank.

the one in the bore is simply an inside micrometer.

[fatz]

mmmm

building the engine is the easy bit

1+2+3+4=10

find a good machinist and stick to them

and always check his clearences

then skdiz

[2rismo]

But mostly just skids, right?

This is why when I need an engine built, I go to.....drum roll......an engine builder. Just the same as when I need a tooth pulled I go to the dentist.

[The Dan]

But mostly just skids, right?

This is why when I need an engine built, I go to.....drum roll......an engine builder. Just the same as when I need a tooth pulled I go to the dentist.

Sif man....Dentists build sick engines.

[BlackR32]

Well I could go to an engine builder and throw more money at it, true... Or I could learn the lesson here about what went wrong so I wont do it again, and when the car is back up and going I will have learned something and built something.

I don't see the point in having someone else make it for me, it's half the fun and later on I might like to do a bigger project my self... it's better I learn on this motor than one that will cost a fortune.

all sarcasm aside, I appreciate all the help and suggestions guys.

I have ordered the new rods, bearings and so on, I WILL take it all to a machinest to make sure it will all match perfectly, then I will throw it all together...

more on this to come I suppose.

[The Dan]

Well I could go to an engine builder and throw more money at it, true... Or I could learn the lesson here about what went wrong so I wont do it again, and when the car is back up and going I will have learned something and built something.

I don't see the point in having someone else make it for me, it's half the fun and later on I might like to do a bigger project my self... it's better I learn on this motor than one that will cost a fortune.

all sarcasm aside, I appreciate all the help and suggestions guys.

I have ordered the new rods, bearings and so on, I WILL take it all to a machinest to make sure it will all match perfectly, then I will throw it all together...

more on this to come I suppose.

So you're having fun?

I prefer a bottle of scotch and a hooker but each to their own.

I believe I made the suggestion and listed all the parts (measuring equipment) you will need to get the job done properly. It's back in the other thread....which is now this one.

[fatz]

yup skidz

[James_03]

yeah your mistake was re-assembling it with factory bearings after having previous issues, I would say the crank was still bad when you re-assembled it. As mentioned by someone else already factory bearings will be OK as long as the crank has not sustained any damage, and I would say the clearances are out on whatever number it lost.

Pull it down again and take it to a machine shop/engine builder. Get them to check the crank/block/cradle and fit aftermarket bearings to suit the crank, depending on if they can polish it out or whatever. I myself would probably source another crank but and still take it to a machine shop to be checked.