Removing front swaybar.

[JimX]

I had another look the other day but I gave up pretty quickly again. I can't get at the front mounting bolt because there's some sort of suspension rod in the way. This rod sits in a large bush pivot, and mounts onto the lower suspension arm with 2 bolts. I'm not sure what this rod is, it doesn't seem to do anything other than stabilise the forwards/backwards movement of the suspension.

Anyway, my question is, is there a way to get the swaybar off without removing this other suspension rod? I had a go with my breaker bar but it's on VERY tightly. I'd rather not remove it unless absolutely necessary. I also don't know what issues I will have trying to put it back in, like will I need a press or something to squeeze the bush back in?

Any advice appreciated!

Edit: I'm guessing this rod is the castor rod, but I could be wrong because I don't know much about suspension. Oh, and the car is an R33 GTS-t.

[2fardown]

Anychance of a pic Jimx?

[JimX]

Yes, but not now I'll see if I get time to do one tonight, if not then on the weekend.

[nismoman18]

im quite sure that is the castor rod that ur talking about!

[JimX]

I pulled open the packets of bushes I got from Whiteline and read the instructions. Those rods are in fact the castor rods, or rather, the radius rods which control the castor. I think I can put the bushes in myself. The Whiteline guy mentioned needing a press to get them in but I think I can do it with my hands or maybe a rubber mallet

I'm going to pull the radius rods off this weekend and do the swaybar, as well as giving the bushes a go. But what I need to know is, what are the torque settings for the radius rod bolts? Does anyone have a list of torque settings for the various suspension bits?

[Lenno]

hey jimx,

the radius rods need to come off to get at the sway bar... easy to get off but as for the radius rod bushes... you will need a press.

torque settings...well mine are as tight as i could get em with a check about 500ks later....

hope this helps

lenno

[JimX]

Thanks for the info Lenno.

So now it seems the biggest problem after undoing that really tight nut holding them on is putting the new bushes in. Could I use something like a vice or G-clamp to push them in? Just thinking of what I can use around home so I don't have to take the car to a suspension shop. I guess once I have them off I could just take the rods themselves in to be done on the spot, hopefully something that can be done on a Saturday morning without costing a fortune (that rules Midas out).

The rear bushes look to be a lot easier, because they are in 2 halves. I'm pretty sure they will go in fairly easily because I shouldn't have to push the "lipped" part of the bush through anything, unlike the radius rod ones.

[Lenno]

no probs jim...

i tryed the vice, g clamp etc ended up taking them to my work to do on my day off (hate that). Just take the radious rods in to a workshop with a press if they charge any more than $5 a side they are robbing ***s.

Btw jim i got some awesome boot/bump kit yesterday should suit the shocks down to a tee... i'll let you lnow how they go

lenno

[JimX]

Oops, I forgot to take pictures

Last night I got all motivated and stuff, and got the radius rods out. I used various methods to undo the tightarse nuts and bolts, including using an old aluminium tubing bed head as an extension on the breaker bar. After the awkwardness of that I used the jack.

I got both rods out, then most of the swaybar off, then the LAST FRIGGEN NUT on the swaybar rounded off! I couldn't believe it. After much swearing I got my housemate's anglegrinder out and ground one side of the nut off. Thankfully I had a replacement nut the same thread (not the same shape tho'). The whole thing took about an hour longer than it should have coz of that nut.

Got the new swaybar in, then decided against trying to use a vice to get the old bushes out. I took both rods and new bushes to my local mechanic, who didn't have a press but referred me to a nearby one that did. I went there and it was done in about 20 minutes (I watched and helped in some bits). Pressing them out was no dramas, but the slippery urethane bushes kept popping out because they didn't have a metal sleeve.

They charged me $20 which I think is quite reasonable, their hourly rate was $60 which is pretty cheap already and 1/3 of an hour is $20 so I think it was entirely fair. Before he started he even warned me that he might not have a cone in that size and he'd have to make one, which would mean I'd be up for an hour's labour. But luckily he found that it was the same size as something on a Landcruiser which he already had the bit for.

Lenno, where did you get the boots and bumpstops from and how much were they? Got any pics?

[JimX]

I got everything in the front back in, and now the car handles superbly! The extra castor angle makes the steering more steady. It wants to straighten up more so I guess it makes it feel a little heavier, but in a nice way. There's no body roll to speak of anymore.

The rear is still a bit sloppy, but that's because my tyres are pretty crap and I haven't installed the camber kit on there yet. I'm thinking of getting a hydraulic press myself rather than taking the arms to a suspension shop, there are 4 bushes to press out instead of 2 so I'm guessing it would be around $40 labour. I can get a press for not much more than that, so I should be able to do it at home and then have a press for future use.

[craz0]

I'm getting whiteline to supply the boots and bump stops with the shock and spring kit, $98 for the front and back for the set.

[Lenno]

hey crazO.... if whiteline supply you the same boots and bumps i got, i don't recomend them. The best boot/bump stop combination i have found and fitted are monroe pk018. These bump stops require cutting but the boots fit a treat. $120 for a set but its good insurance

cheers

lenno

[craz0]

I'm not to sure what they look like yet still waitong for my order to come through. All I know is that they fit the Bilsteins.

I hope they are allright.