Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so we can count you in on Team Nerd hippy :D have a look at this http://development.e-clips.com.au/anton/sh...nterCircuit.pdf need to convert that into a signal redable thru RS232...

looking at the specs for the ECU looks like we can display engine temp and boost and all sorts of cool things!!!

and there aint no reason we can't make the application skinnable so people could change the visuals of the dials and graphs and colors and stuff as well, that would be pretty swish!!!

  • Replies 109
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey guys, just a thought on the whole power input project

The standard battery in most 'lines is not the best when it comes to adding excess drain. Just chuck in a couple of amps and watch your headlights flicker with the bass if you want proof.

Can be fixed though, try running two batteries in parrallel, or just designate a battery for the X-box. The last thing you'd want to do is fry your x-box once its built in.

2c>

An x-box can't take nearly as much as a few amps. It's a mere low end PC. I think between 5 - 10 amps of 12 volt current. Anyway, how can a lack of current fry something like this? I was having a serious lack of current in my desktop and my soundcard and a hard disk stopped working, and my cd burner and dvd burner wouldn't eject anymore... It's working fine again now.

I suppose it all depends on how much shit you want to add..

Great idea, but i think you're getting a bit carried away with trying to hack apart your console to get it in there. There isn't a hell of a lot of room behind there - and it is really designed for stereos only. If you put your screen on a stalk swivel its probably going to be better, then you angle it whenever as well.

I'd just chuck it in the boot, run AV cables to your TV screen, and rip out the USB jacks and run them via cables along your floor trims and the like and mount them somewhere in the front. If you've got a nice large HDD is there really any point having the CD unit in the front either?

Are you going to stepdown via a simple DC->240v inverter or are you going to try and pull out the xbox PSU and run direct onto the board?

Xbox isn't *that* sensitive to heat and vibration.. as long as you pad it well I think it should be fine. Hooking a powerslide might cause you problems I have a feeling though :P Make sure its well secured.

oh I just thought i had better throw in something as well NEEEERRD! lol .. but great idea. Would like to check it out if you manage to get it all working nicely.

woah a bit of interest since i last looked.. Looks like power is finally sorted out (as above):

- Zantech 250W DC->DC PSU (company located in VIC)

- ATX -> XBox Converter from xbox-scene... (guy located in Aust. or will just build ourselves -> pretty simple)

Thanks for the info on the battery. I will probably eventually be running 2 amps and the xbox.. looks like a battery upgrade/additional is in order..

Running out of room in the R33 fast here.... :)

pedator.. yeah my ideas are similiar..

But I don't even see the need to run the USB upfront.. there are RF wireless xbox controllers available - these can control all of the media player functions without much hassle..

If I get really keen I might run an extrension upfront for a IR remote.. a bit more 'user friendly' - i doubt it :)

XBox will be in the boot - probably in a custom box with some nice foam padding and mounted vertically to save some room and to ease vibrations on the HDD a little -

Will probably run an indash lcd at the front - i dont really want to hack things up etc. - if i somehow aquire a lot of money itll be a dvd player as well :)

I dont think its really going to be all that difficult - a few little annoyances that i've thought of:

- Have to run wire from igniition to trigger the xbox to turn on when you turn on the car etc. - might be able to do this the same way as you do an amp..

- Probably run a big cap to smooth out the power - will this help alleviate the problems when the starter motor initialy draws all its power?

- Probably have to do something about batteries etc.

- Have to somehow found the money for all this.. :)

$$$ is my issue at the mo... going to offload my notebook i think for a bit of funding assistance!

definately easier to get it all in the boot, maybe just get a single blank din plate and mount the ports on that rather than hacking up the dash.... gotta admit, it would look nice tho :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...